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(playful xylophone music)

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- [Voiceover] Ladies and
gentlemen, Marc Jacobs.

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- Hello

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- [Man] We're in that truck.

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- [Marc] That's the truck?

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- [Voiceover] Marc
Jacobs in pigeon disguise

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for his end of year New York party,

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forced to ride in a truck,
as his costume is so huge,

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it won't fit into any car.

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But, that epitomizes
a whole state of mind,

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that of the most influential
American fashion designer

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of his generation.

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- [Crowd] Hi!
- Hello

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(classical music)

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- [Voiceover] The theme
of the party is Venice.

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Anyone not in costume, is not allowed in.

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The doors open at 8 pm
sharp, and close at 8:15.

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It's fun, but serious fun.

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The whole of New York
has fought for invites,

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to this now legendary party,

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in the great French
tradition of mask wearing

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fashion designers like
Jacques Fath, or Paul Poiret.

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A somewhat overblown party,

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because Marc Jacobs
has been walking on air

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since he became artistic
director with Louis Vuitton,

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and helped transform
the French luggage maker

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into the most profitable
luxury business ever.

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(ominous sounds overlying classical music)

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(parade fanfare music)

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- [Voiceover] Store openings
have become the new premieres.

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A movie can be a flop,
but not a store opening.

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When Louis Vuitton
re-opened his flagship store

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on the Champs-Élysées in Paris,

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undenied rumor had it that
the megalomaniac amount

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spent on renovating the
building had been amortized

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in just one month.

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- If we didn't love
fashion, we'd be naked.

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- [Voiceover] Luxury today means reckoning

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with the world's market leader.

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The LVMH Group, uniting
over 60 different brands

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of clothing, champagne,
watches, and leather goods,

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and its golden goose,
accounting for half of it sales

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is Louis Vuitton, a genre model,

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it's most emblematic and profitable brand

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with its 19th century monogram,

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a yearly turnover of
several billion Euros,

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hundreds of stores worldwide,

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and for each new opening,
endless queues of diehards,

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ready to shower the shop assistants

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with bank notes.

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(energetic instrumental music)

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The man at the heart
of the Vuitton miracle

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is Bernard Arnault, the business
man who bought the brand

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in 1989 and transformed it into

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an international giant on the up.

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He's the richest man in France,

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but also something of an enigma.

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His boldest decision was to appoint

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a young, independent, and
unpredictable American designer

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as Artistic Director of Vuitton,

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inventor of grunge, Marc Jacobs.

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- [Voiceover] Vuitton's
specialty is leather bags.

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Yet, as I look at the model's hands

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during his first March
'98 fashion show reveals,

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Marc had sought of forgotten something.

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- [Voiceover] Yet, it wasn't
long before he'd given

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the bags a makeover,
transforming them every season

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while remaining faithful
to Vuitton craftsmanship.

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He's incredibly popular, and seems to live

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in a whirlwind of stars.

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- Look at us, what a
motley crew we are, huh?

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- [Voiceover] Here's the
first row at a Vuitton show.

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Jade Jagger, Ludivine Sangnier,
Diane Kruger, Winona Ryder,

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the singer Eve, Wes
Anderson, Marilyn Manson,

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stripper Dita Von Tees,
painter Elizabeth Peyton,

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Japanese artist, Takashi Murakami.

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On the next block, Vuitton
boss, Yves Carcelle,

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Salma Hayek, Alexander Payne,
Misses Deneuve and Thurman,

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Mr. and Mrs Arnault, Sharon
Stone, Pharrell Williams,

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Gillian Anderson, the
French Minister of Trade,

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one Spanish Duke, and

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the Minister of the Economy's wife, phew!

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But to understand what lies
behind this creativeness

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one must access Marc
Jacobs, the only problem is

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Marc Jacobs cannot be
filmed, he's off limits.

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He's very straight up in interviews,

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yet has never allowed a camera

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to look at his creative process.

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- [Marc] No, no, no, no, no.

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- [Woman] Anyone not doing
hair and makeup, get out!

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- [Voiceover] About to give up after years

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of trying to approach him to no avail,

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we noticed a chink in the
armor, Camille Miceli,

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a key member of his inner circle,

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artistic advisor to
Marc Jacobs at Vuitton,

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she also designs jewelry that seems

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to drive Naomi Campbell crazy,

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and organizes the shows.

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- Camille said we're not on the list.

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- [Voiceover] It so
happened that her mother,

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Dominique Miceli could get
us access to this "in-crowd."

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- I love your daughter so much,

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and I love her mom,
and I love her brother,

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so the Miceli family for me, it's like ...

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As long as I have you
guys in my life, I'm okay.

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- [Voiceover] So, we took her
on as our guide and chaperone,

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and she got is in everywhere.

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New York, Tokyo, London, Paris,

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introducing us to close
friends and collaborators.

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- I'm not sure about
- [Dominique] Allo

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- Something like that, but
- [Dominique] Ah, d'accord!

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- [Voiceover] Okay, she
did speak a little loud

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on the phone sometimes during
interviews, but she was nice.

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We started filming with
a skeleton crew of three.

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Dominique, a sound
engineer, and a cameraman.

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- That's Louis.

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- I think every shoot should be like this.

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- [Man] Yeah?

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- Yeah, it feels so much ...you don't need

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more than three people.

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- This is all being
documented for French TV

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so everyone on their best behavior please.

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- [Voiceover] Like we said,

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Marc Jacobs works for two labels,

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his own based in New York,
and Louis Vuitton in Paris.

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- Louis Vuitton Paris would be like this.

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And then Marc Jacobs
Paris would be like this.

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(laugh)

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Or like this.

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- [Voiceover] Marc Jacobs
set up his own label

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when he was 20, with faithful
associate Robert Duffy,

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always by his side, through good and bad,

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and of course during the
negotiations with Vuitton.

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Robert Duffy of the wide open shirt collar

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is behind his champion night and day.

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He's the one who oragnizes
the zany end of year parties.

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Marc Jacobs is a bucker
of trends par excellence.

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He's afraid of nothing.

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- There's my ass.

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- [Voiceover] One of his
brands is called Stinky Rat,

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and its logo is a stinky rat.

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In his window displays,
he's taken a political stand

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against his government,
and the war in Iraq.

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He's done everything
a marketing consultant

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would urge one not to
do with a luxury brand,

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yet his stores are full,
with an average spend

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per customer of over $3,000,

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according to in-house statistics.

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- [Announcer] Mister Marc Jacobs!

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- [Crowd] Hey!

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- [Voiceover] He's won a ton of awards,

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but keeps a level head.

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- [Interviewer] That's
important for fashion

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right now, don't you think?

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- I don't know, "important" and "fashion"

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shouldn't be used in the same sentence.

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(crowd screams)

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- [Voiceover] Never coy, he's always up

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for a bit of star play,
and if a photographer

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asks him to scream his head off

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with his friends and crew
for an hour, he'll do it.

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(crowd screams)

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- So sky is the limit.

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(upbeat rock music)

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- [Voiceover] Before
catching the preparations

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for the Vuitton show in Paris,

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we were told we could film the buildup

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to his own show in New York.

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"Come at ten, you'll get to
see Marc Jacobs at work."

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So, off we went, to the
heart of the hippest area,

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where on the intercom we noticed

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it was just above a poet's circle.

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Eighth floor, here we are.

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There he is.

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- Look!

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- [Voiceover] A portrait of Sofia Coppola

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by Elizabeth Peyton on the wall,

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and on the desk, seven CFDA trophies,

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the US fashion Oscars.

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- [Man] Breakfast?

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- Protein bar, yeah.

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- [Man] A protein bar?

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So, we should try a nice version

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of that pocket shape, right?

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And, fix the fly.

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I think we should try the heavier thread.

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- [Voiceover] This is the inner sanctum.

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No one has ever filmed here,

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and especially not this,

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the elaboration of Marc Jacobs'
collection as it happens.

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He cuts fabric on the floor,

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cobbles together pants that would be

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on the catwalk one week later.

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This is it, in the making.

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And at last, we're in.

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He even lets us film him ironing.

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- Making a documentary.

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- [Woman] Really?

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- Uh-Hmm.

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- [Woman] Oh good.

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- We have it good.

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- [Voiceover] So how does

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the Marc Jacobs machine actually work?

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From this moment on, we'd
be able to observe it.

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(classical music and electronic mix)

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In the room that night,
were Joseph and Shelly.

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Shelly is the cabin model.

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Tattooed all over, she fits
clothes all night long.

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Standing on 15-inch
heels for hours on end,

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her main concern is to
keep her blood circulating.

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(electronic music plays)

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- Oh, sorry Shell.

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(classical music and electronic mix)

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00:10:07,810 --> 00:10:09,618
- Your shoulders are the perfect shoulder.

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00:10:09,618 --> 00:10:10,951
- Small? They're small?

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- Yeah.

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- Ants could dance on my shoulders.

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- I think it's more desirable in a woman.

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- [Voiceover] Joseph is the body and soul,

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totally devoted assistant.

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- Oh my God Joseph, you look amazing now.

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(laughter)

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- [Voiceover] Joseph, is
Marc Jacobs second eye,

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he can't do without him.

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- Joseph?

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00:10:30,553 --> 00:10:31,386
Joseph?

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Where did he go?

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Anybody see Joseph?

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Where did Joseph go?

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I need to see Joseph, is Joseph available?

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Can he come out here.

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Oh, Joseph ...

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Joseph

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Joseph

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Joseph

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Where's Joseph?

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- [Voiceover] And when he finds him,

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he's over the moon.

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- Yay!

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Lots to do Joseph.

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It's gonna work.

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Well?

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Very nice.

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("Canon in D" by Johann Pachelbel)

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It's very caught in the seam isn't it?

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Maybe, it's weird period, let's see.

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What do you think ladies?

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(crowds makes approving noises)

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Of this creation?

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It's gonna be in white, with silver.

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- [Voiceover] He and
Joseph try out some roughs

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00:11:32,131 --> 00:11:35,829
of dresses on Shelly, in
colors garish and disturbing.

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00:11:35,829 --> 00:11:37,251
A vision that would only come clear

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the following week on the catwalk.

255
00:11:42,309 --> 00:11:46,476
("Canon in D" by Johann Pachelbel)

256
00:11:51,680 --> 00:11:53,429
The staff at Jacobs' New York workshop

257
00:11:53,429 --> 00:11:55,040
is unflinchingly faithful,

258
00:11:55,040 --> 00:11:57,181
many have been there since
the brand was created.

259
00:11:57,181 --> 00:11:58,480
They've known the ups and downs,

260
00:11:58,480 --> 00:12:01,141
the near bankruptcies, and
the many sleepless nights.

261
00:12:01,141 --> 00:12:02,989
- Usually, when we interview somebody

262
00:12:02,989 --> 00:12:05,891
we try to explain that the two weeks

263
00:12:05,891 --> 00:12:08,519
before the show, they
will not be sleeping.

264
00:12:08,519 --> 00:12:10,549
Maybe one hour, two hours a night.

265
00:12:10,549 --> 00:12:12,939
- So, we have to do fast.

266
00:12:12,939 --> 00:12:14,356
No time to sleep.

267
00:12:15,219 --> 00:12:17,039
- New people don't believe you.

268
00:12:17,039 --> 00:12:19,131
But, after one season, they believe you.

269
00:12:19,131 --> 00:12:23,298
- This is my a, let's see,
my 24th collection with Marc.

270
00:12:25,377 --> 00:12:27,973
- Some of them for like years, and years,

271
00:12:27,973 --> 00:12:29,556
like fifteen years.

272
00:12:31,084 --> 00:12:34,751
- I was in the army,
then I came to fashion.

273
00:12:36,865 --> 00:12:38,465
- Believe me, they're
not really very happy

274
00:12:38,465 --> 00:12:39,904
about it here but ...

275
00:12:39,904 --> 00:12:41,972
Everybody here works very
hard, but in America,

276
00:12:41,972 --> 00:12:45,323
this what we do, is work
... as Mohammed Ali said.

277
00:12:45,323 --> 00:12:46,883
- [Voiceover] But luckily
Marc Jacobs has a secret

278
00:12:46,883 --> 00:12:49,505
molecule to boost his troops morale.

279
00:12:49,505 --> 00:12:52,183
- Have some sugar, it'll keep you going.

280
00:12:52,183 --> 00:12:53,946
(crowd applauds and cheers)

281
00:12:53,946 --> 00:12:55,434
- [Voiceover] Sugar-doped
troops who it seems

282
00:12:55,434 --> 00:12:56,965
absolutely worship him.

283
00:12:56,965 --> 00:12:58,186
- How you doing?

284
00:12:58,186 --> 00:13:00,123
(offscreen beckoning noise)

285
00:13:00,123 --> 00:13:00,956
What?

286
00:13:02,164 --> 00:13:04,285
- I want you to sign my hat.

287
00:13:04,285 --> 00:13:05,118
- Okay

288
00:13:05,118 --> 00:13:05,951
- Please

289
00:13:05,951 --> 00:13:06,784
- Yeah

290
00:13:08,375 --> 00:13:09,365
Okay.

291
00:13:09,365 --> 00:13:12,775
(hip hop plays on radio)

292
00:13:12,775 --> 00:13:13,608
- Love it.

293
00:13:13,608 --> 00:13:14,503
- Good

294
00:13:14,503 --> 00:13:15,345
Enjoy!

295
00:13:15,345 --> 00:13:16,178
- Got it!

296
00:13:17,285 --> 00:13:19,236
- [Woman] What does it say?

297
00:13:19,236 --> 00:13:20,069
- Got it!

298
00:13:20,069 --> 00:13:21,633
- [Man] Oh wow.

299
00:13:21,633 --> 00:13:23,103
- Look everybody!

300
00:13:23,103 --> 00:13:24,965
- [Voiceover] The working
conditions are special.

301
00:13:24,965 --> 00:13:27,074
As they say here, we're family.

302
00:13:27,074 --> 00:13:27,917
- [Man] Go Ash, yeah.

303
00:13:27,917 --> 00:13:29,786
- Come on Ash, let's do the hustle.

304
00:13:29,786 --> 00:13:30,905
- The hustle bustle.

305
00:13:30,905 --> 00:13:32,165
(laugh)

306
00:13:32,165 --> 00:13:33,743
- You don't know how to do the hustle?

307
00:13:33,743 --> 00:13:34,619
- No, I do know how to
do the hustle bustle.

308
00:13:34,619 --> 00:13:35,788
- You're too young, c'mon.

309
00:13:35,788 --> 00:13:37,455
- I'm not too young to do the hustle ...

310
00:13:37,455 --> 00:13:39,497
- Do this, you to the slide thing.

311
00:13:39,497 --> 00:13:40,434
Follow me, don't be so stiff.

312
00:13:40,434 --> 00:13:42,297
- I can't do this ...
- Relax, relax, relax.

313
00:13:42,297 --> 00:13:44,238
- The whole company feels very like,

314
00:13:44,238 --> 00:13:45,617
like family atmosphere.

315
00:13:45,617 --> 00:13:48,067
Robert Duffy I think
makes a nice environment,

316
00:13:48,067 --> 00:13:50,427
and a lot of people have
worked there for a long time.

317
00:13:50,427 --> 00:13:52,769
So, I always feel very
at home when I go there.

318
00:13:52,769 --> 00:13:55,649
In any case, everybody
seems pretty relaxed.

319
00:13:55,649 --> 00:13:57,809
Like the models who come
for casting sessions,

320
00:13:57,809 --> 00:14:01,976
and who change in plain
view, unabashed all day long.

321
00:14:03,056 --> 00:14:05,217
Marc Jacobs works on two fronts.

322
00:14:05,217 --> 00:14:06,665
In New York for his own brand,

323
00:14:06,665 --> 00:14:08,707
and in Paris for Louis Vuitton.

324
00:14:08,707 --> 00:14:10,385
Obviously in the Vuitton building,

325
00:14:10,385 --> 00:14:11,706
things are not so homey.

326
00:14:11,706 --> 00:14:13,146
In this global company, you need

327
00:14:13,146 --> 00:14:15,329
a different badge for every door.

328
00:14:15,329 --> 00:14:17,649
At Vuitton too, something totally new,

329
00:14:17,649 --> 00:14:19,769
we'd be allowed to follow
over a period of months

330
00:14:19,769 --> 00:14:22,969
the creative process of Marc
Jacobs and his Paris teams,

331
00:14:22,969 --> 00:14:25,768
which began with an
attack of meeting-itis.

332
00:14:25,768 --> 00:14:27,198
- How are you today Loïc?

333
00:14:27,198 --> 00:14:28,815
- [Loïc] Alright, and you?

334
00:14:28,815 --> 00:14:30,365
- I'm super-fine.

335
00:14:30,365 --> 00:14:33,667
(energetic orchestral music)

336
00:14:33,667 --> 00:14:35,067
- [Voiceover] Of course,
we were dying to see

337
00:14:35,067 --> 00:14:37,467
and understand how Marc
Jacobs eye is nourished,

338
00:14:37,467 --> 00:14:40,884
how it adapts to a system like Vuitton's.

339
00:14:43,326 --> 00:14:45,504
He starts out with walls of inspiration.

340
00:14:45,504 --> 00:14:47,006
Everything gets posted there.

341
00:14:47,006 --> 00:14:49,635
Old magazine photos,
pretty freaky portraits,

342
00:14:49,635 --> 00:14:52,294
photocopies of tortured
bits of fabric, flowers.

343
00:14:52,294 --> 00:14:54,326
It all amounts to a sort of riddle.

344
00:14:54,326 --> 00:14:56,694
Half an idea here, a bit
of that spirit there.

345
00:14:56,694 --> 00:14:59,944
A whiff of this, a resemblance of that.

346
00:15:06,755 --> 00:15:08,104
During the Vuitton bag meetings,

347
00:15:08,104 --> 00:15:09,854
the technique is always the same.

348
00:15:09,854 --> 00:15:12,533
The team brainstorms
scores of proposal panels,

349
00:15:12,533 --> 00:15:14,663
samples, drawings and photographs.

350
00:15:14,663 --> 00:15:16,365
Of course, this is a laboratory,

351
00:15:16,365 --> 00:15:17,966
one where billions are made.

352
00:15:17,966 --> 00:15:19,742
With ideas in the making, which as yet,

353
00:15:19,742 --> 00:15:22,502
not patented, cannot be filmed.

354
00:15:22,502 --> 00:15:24,343
- Here there is different options.

355
00:15:24,343 --> 00:15:26,613
- That I would absolutely love to do,

356
00:15:26,613 --> 00:15:30,762
but I'm sure we would
have a lot of problems.

357
00:15:30,762 --> 00:15:32,782
- [Voiceover] Alligator
skin of every shade.

358
00:15:32,782 --> 00:15:34,632
Zany inventions that
will make the competition

359
00:15:34,632 --> 00:15:35,965
green with envy.

360
00:15:37,731 --> 00:15:41,731
- We've tried to to a new
texture, with leather.

361
00:15:42,672 --> 00:15:44,432
- [Voiceover] Also in the
making, new fasteners,

362
00:15:44,432 --> 00:15:47,080
new monograms, here, the unexpected rules.

363
00:15:47,080 --> 00:15:48,731
The quest for visual neologism.

364
00:15:48,731 --> 00:15:50,491
Is it ugly or beautiful?

365
00:15:50,491 --> 00:15:52,609
It's the eternal question of the new.

366
00:15:52,609 --> 00:15:54,836
- I mean, is it so
horrible, that it's good?

367
00:15:54,836 --> 00:15:55,739
(laugh)

368
00:15:55,739 --> 00:16:00,139
Maybe it's just so horrible,
that it's horrible.

369
00:16:00,139 --> 00:16:02,189
- [Voiceover] Dilemma is the watchword

370
00:16:02,189 --> 00:16:05,437
while one reflects and
awaits enlightenment.

371
00:16:05,437 --> 00:16:08,854
(tense electronic music)

372
00:16:23,203 --> 00:16:25,225
- That was the other
thing, what was I looking

373
00:16:25,225 --> 00:16:27,193
at the other day ... little bells.

374
00:16:27,193 --> 00:16:28,873
You know those pretty little bells

375
00:16:28,873 --> 00:16:31,527
like that look like Lily of the Valley,

376
00:16:31,527 --> 00:16:32,777
- [Group] Yes.

377
00:16:32,777 --> 00:16:34,227
That might be a nice thing to have,

378
00:16:34,227 --> 00:16:36,078
hanging from a bag, like little bells.

379
00:16:36,078 --> 00:16:36,975
- [Man] Yeah
- I like it.

380
00:16:36,975 --> 00:16:39,516
- Why did I think of that?

381
00:16:39,516 --> 00:16:41,036
- [Voiceover] Yet amidst
all this industry,

382
00:16:41,036 --> 00:16:44,645
there are also long periods
of meditative silence.

383
00:16:44,645 --> 00:16:48,812
(pop music plays in the background)

384
00:16:52,190 --> 00:16:54,480
Waiting for an angel to pass.

385
00:16:54,480 --> 00:16:55,837
In house legend has it,

386
00:16:55,837 --> 00:16:58,698
that such meetings are haunted by faeries.

387
00:16:58,698 --> 00:16:59,978
(whistling)

388
00:16:59,978 --> 00:17:01,458
(footsteps)

389
00:17:01,458 --> 00:17:03,958
(door creaks)

390
00:17:05,296 --> 00:17:06,717
- Bad faeries getting in here.

391
00:17:06,717 --> 00:17:07,578
(laughter)

392
00:17:07,578 --> 00:17:09,745
- [Woman] They're skyping.

393
00:17:16,587 --> 00:17:18,237
- [Voiceover] Yet, sometimes
these creative meetings

394
00:17:18,237 --> 00:17:20,597
are indeed haunted, by old dead clothes

395
00:17:20,597 --> 00:17:22,528
trying to come back to life.

396
00:17:22,528 --> 00:17:25,357
For example, that day, a dowdy
old mauve acrylic sweater

397
00:17:25,357 --> 00:17:27,058
is about to be raised from the dead,

398
00:17:27,058 --> 00:17:30,326
with a touch of Marc
Jacobs' healing hands.

399
00:17:30,326 --> 00:17:34,888
(hip hop music plays in the background)

400
00:17:34,888 --> 00:17:37,138
The sweater is sized up,
compared to other materials,

401
00:17:37,138 --> 00:17:38,178
other colors.

402
00:17:38,178 --> 00:17:40,011
A DNA sample is taken.

403
00:17:44,069 --> 00:17:45,778
And glory be, a few weeks later,

404
00:17:45,778 --> 00:17:47,509
our old mauve, acrylic sweater has become

405
00:17:47,509 --> 00:17:50,208
a young mauve, Marc
Jacobs cashmere sweater.

406
00:17:50,208 --> 00:17:52,088
And its rather plain pattern has been

407
00:17:52,088 --> 00:17:54,559
considerably refreshed in the process.

408
00:17:54,559 --> 00:17:57,392
(classical music)

409
00:18:04,327 --> 00:18:06,498
Louis Vuitton isn't exactly summer camp,

410
00:18:06,498 --> 00:18:08,327
the parents are around.

411
00:18:08,327 --> 00:18:10,137
There's a certain Bernard Arnault,

412
00:18:10,137 --> 00:18:12,818
a huge organization,
numerous marketing teams,

413
00:18:12,818 --> 00:18:15,719
and an omnipresent CEO, Yves Carcelle.

414
00:18:15,719 --> 00:18:17,477
Among other colossal play things,

415
00:18:17,477 --> 00:18:19,426
is a special room, where
hundreds of up and coming

416
00:18:19,426 --> 00:18:22,007
window displays are reproduced life-size,

417
00:18:22,007 --> 00:18:24,674
waiting for heavy duty approval.

418
00:19:01,898 --> 00:19:04,258
- [Voiceover] At Vuitton,
anything is possible,

419
00:19:04,258 --> 00:19:06,546
if you want to fly the
whole HQ staff and studio

420
00:19:06,546 --> 00:19:09,178
to Japan to stage an exact
remake of the earlier

421
00:19:09,178 --> 00:19:11,717
Paris show in a lunar
bubble built specially

422
00:19:11,717 --> 00:19:14,066
for the occasion on
the outskirts of Tokyo,

423
00:19:14,066 --> 00:19:15,316
then you do it.

424
00:19:36,039 --> 00:19:38,186
- [Man on PA] Can we get all the cameras

425
00:19:38,186 --> 00:19:39,936
in the dressing area!

426
00:19:44,371 --> 00:19:48,562
- [Man on PA] This is Alain
for everybody in queue eight.

427
00:19:48,562 --> 00:19:50,562
(drums)

428
00:19:52,280 --> 00:19:56,447
- [Alain on PA] I need 75
staff in the runway area.

429
00:20:00,821 --> 00:20:02,988
- [Alain on PA] Thank you.

430
00:20:06,261 --> 00:20:08,761
(opera music)

431
00:20:21,039 --> 00:20:23,405
- And the stone is going to be clean.

432
00:20:23,405 --> 00:20:24,954
So the woman with the heel,

433
00:20:24,954 --> 00:20:27,693
they just step like this, on the stone.

434
00:20:27,693 --> 00:20:28,943
They do a walk.

435
00:20:34,915 --> 00:20:36,471
Whoa

436
00:20:36,471 --> 00:20:38,231
Shall we continue?

437
00:20:38,231 --> 00:20:39,064
Allez

438
00:20:39,064 --> 00:20:40,709
- [Voiceover] The guest
list is a who's who

439
00:20:40,709 --> 00:20:42,337
of the Asia Pacific region.

440
00:20:42,337 --> 00:20:45,920
Singers, movie stars,
contemporary artists.

441
00:20:47,907 --> 00:20:49,709
- [Voiceover] Nothing is left to chance.

442
00:20:49,709 --> 00:20:52,128
Press agents have compiled
the outfit, bag, and shoes

443
00:20:52,128 --> 00:20:53,468
of each of their guests,

444
00:20:53,468 --> 00:20:55,579
so that no one will suffer
the supreme humiliation

445
00:20:55,579 --> 00:21:00,315
of wearing someone else's
precious unique piece.

446
00:21:00,315 --> 00:21:02,597
The models too are
identical to the Paris show.

447
00:21:02,597 --> 00:21:04,597
They've flown an average of 25 hours

448
00:21:04,597 --> 00:21:06,979
for about 27 seconds on the catwalk.

449
00:21:06,979 --> 00:21:10,339
But everyone here seems
to find that normal.

450
00:21:10,339 --> 00:21:12,517
It all seems really over the top.

451
00:21:12,517 --> 00:21:14,077
But, it's hard to believe
that so much money

452
00:21:14,077 --> 00:21:16,910
is being squandered to no purpose.

453
00:21:29,070 --> 00:21:30,699
- [Voiceover] And when the stars arrive,

454
00:21:30,699 --> 00:21:32,032
it's pure bliss.

455
00:21:32,032 --> 00:21:34,096
(joyful scream)

456
00:21:34,096 --> 00:21:36,235
No one is wearing the same
shoes, the same outfit,

457
00:21:36,235 --> 00:21:37,568
or the same bag.

458
00:21:39,425 --> 00:21:41,235
- [Interviewer] Are you excited?

459
00:21:41,235 --> 00:21:42,818
- Oh, very excited.

460
00:21:45,738 --> 00:21:47,765
- [Voiceover] Vuitton
boss Yves Carcelle greets

461
00:21:47,765 --> 00:21:49,932
LVMH boss Bernard Arnault.

462
00:21:56,381 --> 00:21:58,210
- [Reporter] Why did
you choose Tokyo to be

463
00:21:58,210 --> 00:21:59,929
the home of the show?

464
00:21:59,929 --> 00:22:01,300
- We stuck a pin on the map.

465
00:22:01,300 --> 00:22:02,620
(laughter)

466
00:22:02,620 --> 00:22:05,990
That's how we do things at
Louis Vuitton, totally random.

467
00:22:05,990 --> 00:22:07,220
(laughter)

468
00:22:07,220 --> 00:22:09,887
So random, we just throw a dart.

469
00:22:11,528 --> 00:22:12,361
- Oops

470
00:22:13,860 --> 00:22:15,649
- [Voiceover] The shoes,
the dresses, the bags,

471
00:22:15,649 --> 00:22:18,482
the stars, everything is in order.

472
00:22:19,940 --> 00:22:22,149
The show can begin.

473
00:22:22,149 --> 00:22:25,899
(intense instrumental music)

474
00:23:00,641 --> 00:23:02,990
And at last, Asia can
applaud the incredible,

475
00:23:02,990 --> 00:23:05,490
the one and only, Marc Jacobs.

476
00:23:14,070 --> 00:23:16,136
And now, it's party time.

477
00:23:16,136 --> 00:23:19,136
(disco dance music)

478
00:23:26,173 --> 00:23:29,013
The Emperor of Luxury
gives him the thumbs up,

479
00:23:29,013 --> 00:23:31,261
everyone clamors to get
photographed with him.

480
00:23:31,261 --> 00:23:33,101
This will be a night like no other.

481
00:23:33,101 --> 00:23:37,573
Fueled by a thousand
magnums of French champagne.

482
00:23:37,573 --> 00:23:40,573
(rapid Tabla music)

483
00:23:47,421 --> 00:23:50,838
(Scottish bagpipe music)

484
00:23:57,981 --> 00:24:00,440
While triumph and hysteria
reign the dance floor,

485
00:24:00,440 --> 00:24:02,352
a radiant Bernard Arnault gives a lecture

486
00:24:02,352 --> 00:24:05,392
on economic strategy, and
suddenly it all seems so simple.

487
00:24:05,392 --> 00:24:10,251
- We are the only company,
completely integrated,

488
00:24:10,251 --> 00:24:13,902
with product, produce,
everything in our ...

489
00:24:13,902 --> 00:24:15,513
(drowned by dance music)

490
00:24:15,513 --> 00:24:19,680
with our craftsmen, and we
sell only in our own shops.

491
00:24:20,833 --> 00:24:23,062
When the others, all the other brands,

492
00:24:23,062 --> 00:24:26,913
they do sell, and they
sell also wholesale.

493
00:24:26,913 --> 00:24:27,952
We don't do it.

494
00:24:27,952 --> 00:24:30,300
It's the reason why we do it so exclusive.

495
00:24:30,300 --> 00:24:33,309
It's the only brand in
the world that has ...

496
00:24:33,309 --> 00:24:34,902
(drowned by dance music)

497
00:24:34,902 --> 00:24:35,768
(Sottish bagpipe music)

498
00:24:35,768 --> 00:24:36,941
- [Voiceover] Usually,
there's nothing worse

499
00:24:36,941 --> 00:24:38,123
than these big corporate parties

500
00:24:38,123 --> 00:24:40,291
where snobs and shareholders
pretend to have fun.

501
00:24:40,291 --> 00:24:42,603
But here, the hippest in
town have all been invited,

502
00:24:42,603 --> 00:24:44,723
and genuine excitement,
mingled with jet lag,

503
00:24:44,723 --> 00:24:46,930
seems to be blending
into a working cocktail.

504
00:24:46,930 --> 00:24:48,651
Even Marc Jacobs is dancing.

505
00:24:48,651 --> 00:24:52,818
Everyone's letting rip, but
isn't that a flower pot?

506
00:24:56,725 --> 00:25:00,725
(singing in a foreign language)

507
00:25:03,491 --> 00:25:05,320
- [Voiceover] Yeah, you
have to throw parties

508
00:25:05,320 --> 00:25:07,661
and attend religious
ceremonies to bless new stores

509
00:25:07,661 --> 00:25:09,520
according to the local customs.

510
00:25:09,520 --> 00:25:13,489
(religious Japanese chanting)

511
00:25:13,489 --> 00:25:15,489
(claps)

512
00:25:26,023 --> 00:25:29,440
(Scottish bagpipe music)

513
00:25:31,941 --> 00:25:33,766
- [Voiceover] The crowd
drank, laughed and danced

514
00:25:33,766 --> 00:25:35,200
as if there was no tomorrow.

515
00:25:35,200 --> 00:25:37,774
But next day, Marc Jacobs
had to go back to Paris.

516
00:25:37,774 --> 00:25:41,691
(energetic instrumental music)

517
00:25:42,560 --> 00:25:43,951
- So excellent.

518
00:25:43,951 --> 00:25:45,039
- [Voiceover] From their trip to Japan,

519
00:25:45,039 --> 00:25:47,439
the Vuitton teams have brought
back kimono belts, of course,

520
00:25:47,439 --> 00:25:50,319
but also these books of dolls
that seem to be everywhere.

521
00:25:50,319 --> 00:25:52,319
Dolls with cutesy flowered headbands

522
00:25:52,319 --> 00:25:54,460
that will make their mark.

523
00:25:54,460 --> 00:25:58,700
(energetic instrumental music)

524
00:25:58,700 --> 00:26:02,867
Headbands whose flowers are
about to be aged and stressed.

525
00:26:20,018 --> 00:26:22,378
- [Voiceover] And when exploding
them won't do the trick,

526
00:26:22,378 --> 00:26:23,846
they're crushed until their beauty

527
00:26:23,846 --> 00:26:26,096
is unanimously agreed upon.

528
00:26:38,426 --> 00:26:41,346
- [Voiceover] Says she,
destroying flowers.

529
00:26:41,346 --> 00:26:43,763
- It's all about destruction.

530
00:26:47,314 --> 00:26:51,231
- [Voiceover] Much better!
- Ah oui la, parfait.

531
00:27:06,031 --> 00:27:10,198
- Maybe they can, when they
dip a little bit in tea.

532
00:27:12,850 --> 00:27:14,570
- [Voiceover] But there's worse than tea.

533
00:27:14,570 --> 00:27:15,850
Everything has to be bleached,

534
00:27:15,850 --> 00:27:20,017
including jewelry and embroidery
in baby baths on the roof.

535
00:27:36,741 --> 00:27:38,631
- [Voiceover] Only
problem is, bleach smells,

536
00:27:38,631 --> 00:27:40,631
and is highly corrosive.

537
00:28:00,981 --> 00:28:02,341
- [Voiceover] The quest
is for more or less

538
00:28:02,341 --> 00:28:04,421
random destruction,
because the idea of chaos

539
00:28:04,421 --> 00:28:06,109
interests Marc Jacobs.

540
00:28:06,109 --> 00:28:08,781
Chaos he plays with, draping
the model as he goes,

541
00:28:08,781 --> 00:28:10,571
or even with nothing to go on,

542
00:28:10,571 --> 00:28:11,988
no safety net whatsoever.

543
00:28:11,988 --> 00:28:13,500
- You can have a bit of this blouse,

544
00:28:13,500 --> 00:28:14,642
and a bit of a pin tuck.

545
00:28:14,642 --> 00:28:15,475
- Yeah

546
00:28:15,475 --> 00:28:16,308
- You can go there.

547
00:28:16,308 --> 00:28:17,141
- Yeah

548
00:28:18,743 --> 00:28:22,455
- Ivories of whatever, or
these things, you know,

549
00:28:22,455 --> 00:28:24,440
under those things.
- Yup

550
00:28:24,440 --> 00:28:25,516
- That looks nice.

551
00:28:25,516 --> 00:28:26,349
- Yeah

552
00:28:27,575 --> 00:28:29,364
- Maybe those can just be like shells

553
00:28:29,364 --> 00:28:32,564
or something more hard,
you know what I mean?

554
00:28:32,564 --> 00:28:34,874
Because the necklines
here are so romantic.

555
00:28:34,874 --> 00:28:39,434
Maybe that should be like just
chopped up like crew neck.

556
00:28:39,434 --> 00:28:40,267
- Yeah

557
00:28:41,434 --> 00:28:42,714
- [Voiceover] So a photograph is taken,

558
00:28:42,714 --> 00:28:44,164
and Marc Jacobs synthesizes his vision

559
00:28:44,164 --> 00:28:46,244
into a technical drawing
so the workshop staff

560
00:28:46,244 --> 00:28:47,654
can understand it.

561
00:28:47,654 --> 00:28:51,821
(contemplative instrumental music)

562
00:28:54,905 --> 00:28:57,294
This taste for cut and paste,
for chaotic choppiness,

563
00:28:57,294 --> 00:28:59,844
tends to rankle during bag meetings.

564
00:28:59,844 --> 00:29:03,145
By way of freeform cutting
into raw monogrammed canvas,

565
00:29:03,145 --> 00:29:04,865
the search for new shapes,

566
00:29:04,865 --> 00:29:07,036
the accumulation of old bags on the floor,

567
00:29:07,036 --> 00:29:10,134
a pocket retrospective of Marc
Jacobs' cult Vuitton bags,

568
00:29:10,134 --> 00:29:13,644
and a python patchwork
shoe, an idea emerges.

569
00:29:13,644 --> 00:29:17,144
That of a quasi cubist, mix-and-match bag.

570
00:29:18,174 --> 00:29:20,882
- Maybe, it'd be good to take,

571
00:29:20,882 --> 00:29:23,019
like the quilting we did do for the Fall,

572
00:29:23,019 --> 00:29:24,293
and do it in ivory.

573
00:29:24,293 --> 00:29:25,126
- Yeah

574
00:29:25,126 --> 00:29:26,780
- A bit of that for part of a bag,

575
00:29:26,780 --> 00:29:29,199
and put it with the new smocking thing,

576
00:29:29,199 --> 00:29:31,210
and put it with a denim, and put it with,

577
00:29:31,210 --> 00:29:33,439
maybe even see if we could change

578
00:29:33,439 --> 00:29:36,628
some of the graffiti-ed, a white on brown,

579
00:29:36,628 --> 00:29:39,010
and a bit of appliqué from Julian,

580
00:29:39,010 --> 00:29:42,298
you know, just like, kinda everything.

581
00:29:42,298 --> 00:29:43,396
- That would be good.

582
00:29:43,396 --> 00:29:45,058
- Could be.

583
00:29:45,058 --> 00:29:46,876
So it would be nice to see
all these things together,

584
00:29:46,876 --> 00:29:49,709
to see that we really can combine.

585
00:29:50,667 --> 00:29:52,368
- [Voiceover] Sometime
later, it becomes a muddle

586
00:29:52,368 --> 00:29:53,866
still far from approved.

587
00:29:53,866 --> 00:29:56,268
Of course, Marc Jacobs is
going to put his spoke in.

588
00:29:56,268 --> 00:29:58,008
A lot of spokes.

589
00:29:58,008 --> 00:30:00,570
- But maybe it should go this way.

590
00:30:00,570 --> 00:30:03,258
- [Woman] Yup.
- What about like this?

591
00:30:03,258 --> 00:30:04,308
And chopped.

592
00:30:04,308 --> 00:30:06,308
- I think it's too much.

593
00:30:07,574 --> 00:30:10,074
Maybe we outta tape like that.

594
00:30:13,335 --> 00:30:14,845
- [Voiceover] We also witnessed the birth

595
00:30:14,845 --> 00:30:18,237
of new shoes, with Frabrizio
Viti, the house shoe stylist.

596
00:30:18,237 --> 00:30:19,554
We'd all already met him in Tokyo.

597
00:30:19,554 --> 00:30:23,273
(Scottish bagpipe music)

598
00:30:23,273 --> 00:30:25,301
He starts out with a men's shoe.

599
00:30:25,301 --> 00:30:26,863
A disco man's shoe.

600
00:30:26,863 --> 00:30:28,284
- So we thought that maybe the only place

601
00:30:28,284 --> 00:30:30,641
where we can still find
issues is very base.

602
00:30:30,641 --> 00:30:32,702
- [Voiceover] A Glam disco man's shoe.

603
00:30:32,702 --> 00:30:35,105
- Very, very bad taste man's shoes.

604
00:30:35,105 --> 00:30:37,855
- [Voiceover] A high
heeled Glam disco shoe.

605
00:30:37,855 --> 00:30:39,415
We're between two minds.

606
00:30:39,415 --> 00:30:41,047
Some models look pretty funky.

607
00:30:41,047 --> 00:30:44,464
(funky electronic music)

608
00:30:51,398 --> 00:30:53,065
When suddenly ...

609
00:30:53,065 --> 00:30:55,984
- You have more like this kind of a thing?

610
00:30:55,984 --> 00:30:58,817
(pencil on paper)

611
00:31:06,226 --> 00:31:07,950
- [Woman] Yeah, oui.

612
00:31:07,950 --> 00:31:09,601
- There's a hole inside.
- Yeah, and wrapped like that.

613
00:31:09,601 --> 00:31:10,934
Yeah, of course.

614
00:31:12,325 --> 00:31:14,641
- [Voiceover] And bingo, a few weeks later

615
00:31:14,641 --> 00:31:18,808
the boxes arrived from the
Vuitton workshops in Italy.

616
00:31:19,735 --> 00:31:22,459
(crinkly paper unfolds)

617
00:31:22,459 --> 00:31:24,209
- Ooh, the green one.

618
00:31:25,121 --> 00:31:26,832
- [Voiceover] Not in the least masculine.

619
00:31:26,832 --> 00:31:27,693
But as a starting point,

620
00:31:27,693 --> 00:31:30,943
it was a necessary, if throwaway, step.

621
00:31:31,813 --> 00:31:34,063
- [Woman] Oh, look at that!

622
00:31:35,966 --> 00:31:38,186
- [Voiceover] Yet, one
unexpected production hitch,

623
00:31:38,186 --> 00:31:40,636
is that the metal heels
turn out to be really heavy,

624
00:31:40,636 --> 00:31:43,546
and cannot be modified before the show.

625
00:31:43,546 --> 00:31:45,306
- You walk down the
runway, and you'll have

626
00:31:45,306 --> 00:31:46,928
like legs like Arnold
Schwarzenegger in this

627
00:31:46,928 --> 00:31:48,329
by the time you get back.

628
00:31:48,329 --> 00:31:52,079
(energetic electronic music)

629
00:31:53,895 --> 00:31:55,403
- [Voiceover] In New
York too, we were there

630
00:31:55,403 --> 00:31:57,833
when the boxes for the Marc
Jacobs' label were opened.

631
00:31:57,833 --> 00:31:59,695
And each one held a surprise,

632
00:31:59,695 --> 00:32:01,975
paper flowers made by
feather maker Le Marielle,

633
00:32:01,975 --> 00:32:04,243
from American sandwich wrapping.

634
00:32:04,243 --> 00:32:05,076
- This, I love these.

635
00:32:05,076 --> 00:32:07,176
The French butcher paper.

636
00:32:07,176 --> 00:32:11,086
- [Voiceover] Others cut into
French butcher shop paper.

637
00:32:11,086 --> 00:32:13,116
- C'est joli non?

638
00:32:13,116 --> 00:32:16,033
C'est le boucherie 110 rue dans ...

639
00:32:19,236 --> 00:32:21,127
Oh the French, boy do they know

640
00:32:21,127 --> 00:32:23,356
how to make beautiful flowers.

641
00:32:23,356 --> 00:32:25,044
- [Voiceover] Because
this mix of rich and poor,

642
00:32:25,044 --> 00:32:26,615
ugly and beautiful, twee and twisted,

643
00:32:26,615 --> 00:32:28,433
is a Marc Jacobs obsession.

644
00:32:28,433 --> 00:32:29,683
- Yeah, tragic.

645
00:32:30,653 --> 00:32:33,486
(hard rock music)

646
00:32:42,926 --> 00:32:45,859
Okay, as screwy as it can be, the better.

647
00:32:45,859 --> 00:32:46,692
- Yeah, okay.

648
00:32:46,692 --> 00:32:47,831
- You know what I mean?

649
00:32:47,831 --> 00:32:50,012
'Cause, I like them
more fucked up than ...

650
00:32:50,012 --> 00:32:51,258
- Yeah, yeah.

651
00:32:51,258 --> 00:32:53,528
- [Voiceover] Of course if a
T-shirt is to be made screwy,

652
00:32:53,528 --> 00:32:57,695
the screwiness will be perfectly
controlled, hole by hole.

653
00:33:01,528 --> 00:33:03,449
- That hole is very important.

654
00:33:03,449 --> 00:33:04,282
- Sssst!

655
00:33:05,317 --> 00:33:08,234
- You know, it's not just any hole.

656
00:33:09,757 --> 00:33:13,174
Defects are good, we're celebrating them.

657
00:33:14,698 --> 00:33:19,037
There is another possibility,
which is even more ridiculous.

658
00:33:19,037 --> 00:33:21,517
I don't think it will look
ridiculous in a bad way.

659
00:33:21,517 --> 00:33:25,149
I think, I mean I uses that
word in the very nice sense.

660
00:33:25,149 --> 00:33:27,509
It's great being uncool.

661
00:33:27,509 --> 00:33:31,578
So this is brassiere, let's
have a walk in the brassiere,

662
00:33:31,578 --> 00:33:34,661
which I love, but it may be too ugly.

663
00:33:36,189 --> 00:33:39,098
But I mean, it's really good.

664
00:33:39,098 --> 00:33:40,749
It's really good but it's really ugly.

665
00:33:40,749 --> 00:33:42,949
I know that, and I like that.

666
00:33:42,949 --> 00:33:43,829
Don't worry!

667
00:33:43,829 --> 00:33:46,749
As soon as I get my clothes,
I'll push it really far.

668
00:33:46,749 --> 00:33:51,318
So far, that you might, that
we may get hams thrown at us.

669
00:33:51,318 --> 00:33:53,166
Oh, let me see those violet ones.

670
00:33:53,166 --> 00:33:54,937
Robert, like this is really super insane.

671
00:33:54,937 --> 00:33:56,958
Look at the falling down heels on that.

672
00:33:56,958 --> 00:33:58,458
- That is awesome.

673
00:34:00,107 --> 00:34:01,925
- [Voiceover] Though he plays
around with his clothes,

674
00:34:01,925 --> 00:34:03,506
when it comes to musically staging them,

675
00:34:03,506 --> 00:34:05,445
he knows exactly what he wants.

676
00:34:05,445 --> 00:34:09,365
A remix of a great
classic, Pachelbel's Canon.

677
00:34:09,365 --> 00:34:12,685
("Canon in D" remix)

678
00:34:12,685 --> 00:34:15,885
Intrigued by such a choice,
we simply asked him why?

679
00:34:15,885 --> 00:34:17,187
And out came one of the keys

680
00:34:17,187 --> 00:34:19,235
to how it all works in his head.

681
00:34:19,235 --> 00:34:22,885
- I had it in my mind, this
Pachelbel, I don't know why.

682
00:34:22,885 --> 00:34:25,867
I like, I get very ... It comes from ...

683
00:34:25,867 --> 00:34:28,965
I don't know, just like
all of a sudden like,

684
00:34:28,965 --> 00:34:31,798
think of something kind of cliché,

685
00:34:33,064 --> 00:34:35,043
in a way, and I just think okay but,

686
00:34:35,043 --> 00:34:39,293
I don't want to do it exactly
the ... Way I know it.

687
00:34:39,293 --> 00:34:40,352
It's that simple really.

688
00:34:40,352 --> 00:34:42,178
(laugh)

689
00:34:42,178 --> 00:34:46,261
It's so completely, not
a real, cerebral concept.

690
00:34:49,075 --> 00:34:51,305
I mean it's very pretty, it's nice.

691
00:34:51,305 --> 00:34:53,736
I mean I can see Sofia
wearing it like that.

692
00:34:53,736 --> 00:34:55,587
- [Voiceover] We were beginning
to fall under his spell,

693
00:34:55,587 --> 00:34:58,456
just like Sofia Coppola,
barefoot, pink nails,

694
00:34:58,456 --> 00:35:00,846
her ballet flats nearby, Laduree candles

695
00:35:00,846 --> 00:35:03,296
on the coffee table,
white smelling peonies,

696
00:35:03,296 --> 00:35:05,616
Fellini and Soderbergh
DVD's to catch up on,

697
00:35:05,616 --> 00:35:07,576
painting still unwrapped,
and expecting a baby,

698
00:35:07,576 --> 00:35:10,659
she gave us her take
on Marc Jacobs' vision.

699
00:35:10,659 --> 00:35:12,676
- Mark is such a creative person,

700
00:35:12,676 --> 00:35:16,737
and creative people, creativity,
is mysterious I think.

701
00:35:16,737 --> 00:35:20,167
So, I don't know exactly how he translates

702
00:35:20,167 --> 00:35:22,789
what he sees into what he makes,

703
00:35:22,789 --> 00:35:24,789
but I can relate to, um,

704
00:35:26,647 --> 00:35:29,966
or I can see how he takes a
lot of different information

705
00:35:29,966 --> 00:35:32,756
and interests and combines it in his work,

706
00:35:32,756 --> 00:35:35,173
which I think is interesting.

707
00:35:37,945 --> 00:35:39,335
- [Voiceover] A novelist
Francine Prose tried

708
00:35:39,335 --> 00:35:41,785
to explain this state of grace.

709
00:35:41,785 --> 00:35:44,785
- Its kind of a charmed situation,

710
00:35:44,785 --> 00:35:48,725
I mean that is anything that
is associated with Marc Jacobs

711
00:35:48,725 --> 00:35:50,065
instantly becomes popular.

712
00:35:50,065 --> 00:35:53,514
So, essentially they could call any line

713
00:35:53,514 --> 00:35:55,476
anything they wanted to,

714
00:35:55,476 --> 00:35:58,212
and if there were a
connection with Marc Jacobs,

715
00:35:58,212 --> 00:36:00,036
it would be incredibly popular.

716
00:36:00,036 --> 00:36:03,555
It's sort of the combination
of extremely stylish,

717
00:36:03,555 --> 00:36:07,327
extremely beautiful,
extremely unpretentious,

718
00:36:07,327 --> 00:36:08,905
and extremely hip.

719
00:36:08,905 --> 00:36:10,912
I mean the cachet is extraordinary.

720
00:36:10,912 --> 00:36:12,847
- You know, I have a teenage daughter,

721
00:36:12,847 --> 00:36:15,447
all her friends, I mean
to them, Marc is God.

722
00:36:15,447 --> 00:36:19,217
- He is an American genius in fashion.

723
00:36:19,217 --> 00:36:21,257
- [Voiceover] But for now, the
American genius in fashion,

724
00:36:21,257 --> 00:36:22,577
is stressing him out in the limo

725
00:36:22,577 --> 00:36:24,956
that is taking him to the
first show of the season.

726
00:36:24,956 --> 00:36:27,873
The New York show of his own label.

727
00:36:33,536 --> 00:36:34,857
In the backstage half light,

728
00:36:34,857 --> 00:36:37,456
he seems to be the only one
who can read the whole puzzle,

729
00:36:37,456 --> 00:36:39,457
to know how many balls he has in the air,

730
00:36:39,457 --> 00:36:41,825
an adrenaline overdose
he knows how to handle.

731
00:36:41,825 --> 00:36:43,721
It seems nerves and a knife edge are key

732
00:36:43,721 --> 00:36:45,652
to his creative process.

733
00:36:45,652 --> 00:36:49,681
- Sasha, can you go back with
Ryan in the white T shirt.

734
00:36:49,681 --> 00:36:53,079
("Canon in D" by Pachelbel remix)

735
00:36:53,079 --> 00:36:55,079
(claps)

736
00:36:59,197 --> 00:37:00,530
- [Woman] Alana!

737
00:37:02,355 --> 00:37:03,816
Alana!

738
00:37:03,816 --> 00:37:04,649
Diani!

739
00:37:06,003 --> 00:37:06,836
Maya!

740
00:37:21,243 --> 00:37:22,076
Alana!

741
00:37:25,534 --> 00:37:27,043
- [Voiceover] The Marc
Jacobs New York show

742
00:37:27,043 --> 00:37:29,612
is the key event of the
North American fashion scene.

743
00:37:29,612 --> 00:37:31,174
It's the place to be.

744
00:37:31,174 --> 00:37:34,102
Even the blasé of Hollywood
can't quite believe it.

745
00:37:34,102 --> 00:37:37,435
- This is more press than at a premiere.

746
00:37:42,803 --> 00:37:43,636
- Wow.

747
00:37:45,742 --> 00:37:47,902
It's the most important
social event in New York,

748
00:37:47,902 --> 00:37:51,294
Marc Jacobs fashion show, number one.

749
00:37:51,294 --> 00:37:53,683
Everybody can see, it's everybody sitting,

750
00:37:53,683 --> 00:37:57,134
and looking, and people feel strongly

751
00:37:57,134 --> 00:38:01,051
that he knows something,
you know, and he does.

752
00:38:02,161 --> 00:38:04,211
He has a good sensibility.

753
00:38:04,211 --> 00:38:05,990
It's sort of like an arena, you know,

754
00:38:05,990 --> 00:38:07,611
like if the games begin,

755
00:38:07,611 --> 00:38:09,269
everyone can see.

756
00:38:09,269 --> 00:38:13,186
It's a fascinating
sociological type situation.

757
00:38:14,161 --> 00:38:16,579
And Marc is the top dog,

758
00:38:16,579 --> 00:38:19,110
and doesn't care to be,
but he is, you know.

759
00:38:19,110 --> 00:38:23,277
("Canon in D" by Pachelbel, remix)

760
00:39:25,124 --> 00:39:27,444
(crowd applauds)

761
00:39:27,444 --> 00:39:28,964
- [Voiceover] But he takes
it all in his stride,

762
00:39:28,964 --> 00:39:30,484
without melodrama.

763
00:39:30,484 --> 00:39:32,364
- I didn't do anything, I just did my job.

764
00:39:32,364 --> 00:39:33,892
Hello ...Oh My god.

765
00:39:33,892 --> 00:39:37,905
- Oh my God, famous people!
- It was so crazy out there!

766
00:39:37,905 --> 00:39:39,461
- Hey, how are you?
- Congratulations, alright.

767
00:39:39,461 --> 00:39:40,294
And you're in it.

768
00:39:40,294 --> 00:39:41,127
- Wow.

769
00:39:41,127 --> 00:39:43,520
(screams)

770
00:39:43,520 --> 00:39:45,370
- I love you!

771
00:39:45,370 --> 00:39:47,779
- You look so fucking good!
- My girl!

772
00:39:47,779 --> 00:39:48,612
I told you ...

773
00:39:48,612 --> 00:39:49,445
(screams)

774
00:39:49,445 --> 00:39:50,708
Sofia!

775
00:39:50,708 --> 00:39:52,277
That's my friend Sofia, this is Kim.

776
00:39:52,277 --> 00:39:53,429
- Hi
- ... and Zoe.

777
00:39:53,429 --> 00:39:54,262
- Hi Zoe.

778
00:39:55,798 --> 00:39:57,973
Ah, she looks great.

779
00:39:57,973 --> 00:40:01,015
- [Marc] Ladies and
gentlemen, Victoria Beckam.

780
00:40:01,015 --> 00:40:03,045
- [Photographer] The
French people are jealous.

781
00:40:03,045 --> 00:40:05,245
- No they're not, I
love the French people.

782
00:40:05,245 --> 00:40:09,412
Some of my best friends are
French people, right Loïc?

783
00:40:10,295 --> 00:40:12,295
(yawns)

784
00:40:17,578 --> 00:40:18,828
This is insane.

785
00:40:25,425 --> 00:40:28,842
(muffled traffic sounds)

786
00:40:31,192 --> 00:40:32,025
So crazy.

787
00:40:34,320 --> 00:40:38,403
I never really believe
what people say, you know.

788
00:40:43,240 --> 00:40:45,280
- Congratulations

789
00:40:45,280 --> 00:40:49,030
(ominous instrumental music)

790
00:40:54,392 --> 00:40:55,225
- Thanks

791
00:40:57,131 --> 00:40:58,349
- How are you?

792
00:40:58,349 --> 00:41:00,835
- Take a picture with him.

793
00:41:00,835 --> 00:41:01,668
- I did

794
00:41:02,869 --> 00:41:03,927
- I loved your collection,

795
00:41:03,927 --> 00:41:06,549
it's a drastic, drastic
contrast from last season.

796
00:41:06,549 --> 00:41:07,632
It's amazing.

797
00:41:11,069 --> 00:41:12,486
- You're amazing.

798
00:41:18,966 --> 00:41:21,578
- Oh my God.
- So many mistakes.

799
00:41:21,578 --> 00:41:24,287
- There were so many mistakes.

800
00:41:24,287 --> 00:41:25,538
I'm so upset.

801
00:41:25,538 --> 00:41:27,258
- Wow, yeah, that first shoe.

802
00:41:27,258 --> 00:41:30,472
- The first shoe, the first
shoe and then the two dresses

803
00:41:30,472 --> 00:41:31,728
that didn't come out.

804
00:41:31,728 --> 00:41:33,040
- That's alright, you know what,

805
00:41:33,040 --> 00:41:35,565
everybody was like, that's the
fashion industry right there.

806
00:41:35,565 --> 00:41:36,398
- No!

807
00:41:38,017 --> 00:41:41,684
Another one's over,
it's on to the next one.

808
00:41:43,648 --> 00:41:44,898
On to the next.

809
00:41:46,867 --> 00:41:48,209
- [Voiceover] When we do catch up with him

810
00:41:48,209 --> 00:41:51,107
after his New York show, he's in pieces.

811
00:41:51,107 --> 00:41:55,678
- I'm really feeling like
very, very, very exhausted.

812
00:41:55,678 --> 00:41:56,928
Very exhausted.

813
00:41:58,387 --> 00:41:59,220
So ...

814
00:42:00,849 --> 00:42:02,567
- [Voiceover] But he
has neither the choice

815
00:42:02,567 --> 00:42:04,426
nor the time, in just three weeks,

816
00:42:04,426 --> 00:42:06,436
he must do another show,
for Vuitton this time,

817
00:42:06,436 --> 00:42:08,707
and start the idea machine pumping afresh.

818
00:42:08,707 --> 00:42:09,997
But where do you find inspiration

819
00:42:09,997 --> 00:42:11,494
when you're utterly drained.

820
00:42:11,494 --> 00:42:12,327
All year around,

821
00:42:12,327 --> 00:42:14,417
when Marc Jacobs isn't
silently judging gloth,

822
00:42:14,417 --> 00:42:16,746
he regenerates his creative strength,

823
00:42:16,746 --> 00:42:18,849
running around the galleries,
contemporary at fairs,

824
00:42:18,849 --> 00:42:22,225
and auctions, building up
his own art collection.

825
00:42:22,225 --> 00:42:24,857
He greets the gallery owners,
checks out what's on offer,

826
00:42:24,857 --> 00:42:26,929
along with one of his best friends,

827
00:42:26,929 --> 00:42:27,918
diamond dealer John Reinhold,

828
00:42:27,918 --> 00:42:29,584
who introduced him to this milieu.

829
00:42:29,584 --> 00:42:30,834
- Good?
- Good.

830
00:42:32,767 --> 00:42:34,302
- They're making a documentary.

831
00:42:34,302 --> 00:42:35,135
- Oh, on you?

832
00:42:35,135 --> 00:42:37,237
- Yeah, no, on you, we
didn't tell you yet.

833
00:42:37,237 --> 00:42:38,310
(laugh)

834
00:42:38,310 --> 00:42:39,340
- Did you find good things here?

835
00:42:39,340 --> 00:42:42,201
- I bought, yeah, a couple of nice things.

836
00:42:42,201 --> 00:42:45,112
I bought a nice drawing of Ed Ruscha's,

837
00:42:45,112 --> 00:42:48,729
and I bought a nice Richard Prince.

838
00:42:48,729 --> 00:42:50,713
(classical music)

839
00:42:50,713 --> 00:42:53,491
- [Voiceover] Yet, he chooses
not to show his collection.

840
00:42:53,491 --> 00:42:55,633
He remains very discreet on the subject.

841
00:42:55,633 --> 00:42:57,313
He owns neither boat nor car.

842
00:42:57,313 --> 00:42:59,201
He doesn't even own his own apartment.

843
00:42:59,201 --> 00:43:02,651
His only possessions are his
paintings and sculptures.

844
00:43:02,651 --> 00:43:04,052
Starting out with portraits,

845
00:43:04,052 --> 00:43:06,921
he then focused on
contemporary American artists.

846
00:43:06,921 --> 00:43:10,953
And now seems to be gradually
leaning towards abstraction.

847
00:43:10,953 --> 00:43:12,838
- Do you know very much about Picabia?

848
00:43:12,838 --> 00:43:14,918
- A little bit, a little bit.

849
00:43:14,918 --> 00:43:16,990
I bought a drawing, a Picabia drawing

850
00:43:16,990 --> 00:43:18,449
from London a few years ago.

851
00:43:18,449 --> 00:43:19,958
- [Voiceover] When he
really wants a piece,

852
00:43:19,958 --> 00:43:21,590
he has no qualms about
besieging a gallery,

853
00:43:21,590 --> 00:43:22,589
like the very prestigious

854
00:43:22,589 --> 00:43:24,878
Larry Gagosian gallery in New York.

855
00:43:24,878 --> 00:43:25,711
- [Interviewer] C'est Cezanne, oui?

856
00:43:25,711 --> 00:43:26,544
- Cezanne yeah.

857
00:43:26,544 --> 00:43:27,738
- [Interviewer] Cezanne again?

858
00:43:27,738 --> 00:43:29,517
- Cezanne yeah, and Picasso,

859
00:43:29,517 --> 00:43:31,469
and this is Bacon, Francis Bacon.

860
00:43:31,469 --> 00:43:32,978
- [Interviewer] I love that
you have a Francis Bacon

861
00:43:32,978 --> 00:43:33,811
on the floor.

862
00:43:33,811 --> 00:43:37,561
- Bacon there, Warhol,
and that's Cy Twombly.

863
00:43:38,581 --> 00:43:40,322
Marc's a very competitive collector.

864
00:43:40,322 --> 00:43:42,452
I mean he he does his homework.

865
00:43:42,452 --> 00:43:44,452
He knows when an artist
is going to have a show.

866
00:43:44,452 --> 00:43:47,722
He's very, very, he's very, in a nice way,

867
00:43:47,722 --> 00:43:50,839
but he's quite aggressive,
and you have to really

868
00:43:50,839 --> 00:43:54,479
have that kind of passion and kind of

869
00:43:54,479 --> 00:43:58,029
polite aggression, hopefully polite,

870
00:43:58,029 --> 00:44:00,661
but you need the ... to make a collection.

871
00:44:00,661 --> 00:44:03,090
Otherwise you're just buying stuff.

872
00:44:03,090 --> 00:44:05,410
- If he goes to an auction himself,

873
00:44:05,410 --> 00:44:09,450
together with me, which
happened once in a awhile,

874
00:44:09,450 --> 00:44:12,130
we would discuss the final price,

875
00:44:12,130 --> 00:44:14,701
but then, when he was actually there,

876
00:44:14,701 --> 00:44:16,364
and he would see the piece come up,

877
00:44:16,364 --> 00:44:17,564
he would whisper to me,

878
00:44:17,564 --> 00:44:19,495
"Oh we can go much higher than that."

879
00:44:19,495 --> 00:44:21,773
That's even before they started bidding.

880
00:44:21,773 --> 00:44:25,423
So, I would ask him to
please sit on his hands,

881
00:44:25,423 --> 00:44:29,194
so that he wouldn't be
able to raise his paddle.

882
00:44:29,194 --> 00:44:30,111
- Hey Jeff!

883
00:44:31,404 --> 00:44:34,103
- [Voiceover] Jeff Koons,
Rachel Feinstein, John Currin,

884
00:44:34,103 --> 00:44:36,364
Elizabeth Peyton, he hob
nobs with numerous artists

885
00:44:36,364 --> 00:44:38,364
from the New York scene.

886
00:44:40,975 --> 00:44:42,823
And when Californian artist Ed Ruscha

887
00:44:42,823 --> 00:44:44,263
attended one of his shows,

888
00:44:44,263 --> 00:44:46,495
a lifelong dream had come true.

889
00:44:46,495 --> 00:44:48,534
- When I met Madonna, I was
like, Hi, nice to meet you,

890
00:44:48,534 --> 00:44:51,264
and I like her, I
respect her, she's great,

891
00:44:51,264 --> 00:44:53,092
but when I met Ed
Ruscha, I couldn't speak,

892
00:44:53,092 --> 00:44:56,134
I had, I was like, oh my God.

893
00:44:56,134 --> 00:44:58,534
- [Voiceover] In the endless
corridors of his Tokyo hotel,

894
00:44:58,534 --> 00:45:01,054
we thought to ask him about
this boundless admiration,

895
00:45:01,054 --> 00:45:05,221
and his hang-ups as a craftsman
in the face of artists.

896
00:45:06,232 --> 00:45:07,982
- Oh, my door's open.

897
00:45:10,784 --> 00:45:11,910
Come on in.

898
00:45:11,910 --> 00:45:12,743
- [Interviewer] Yeah?

899
00:45:12,743 --> 00:45:14,536
- Yeah, why not.

900
00:45:14,536 --> 00:45:16,375
Oh, I think they're
doing the housekeeping.

901
00:45:16,375 --> 00:45:17,208
You can come in.

902
00:45:17,208 --> 00:45:20,397
Look I have like a Japanese dining room,

903
00:45:20,397 --> 00:45:22,815
I have this living
room, beautiful bedroom,

904
00:45:22,815 --> 00:45:24,988
gorgeous bathroom.

905
00:45:24,988 --> 00:45:26,649
- [Interviewer] Fantastic.

906
00:45:26,649 --> 00:45:27,607
- [Voiceover] They booked him into

907
00:45:27,607 --> 00:45:29,467
one of the hotels' largest suites.

908
00:45:29,467 --> 00:45:33,634
It seems his French employers
put a premium on his comfort.

909
00:45:35,049 --> 00:45:36,189
- Do you want to sit down?

910
00:45:36,189 --> 00:45:37,399
- [Voiceover] But we didn't dare.

911
00:45:37,399 --> 00:45:39,356
We weren't half as relaxed
as the Japanese photographer

912
00:45:39,356 --> 00:45:41,569
who sang with him in the elevator
a couple of days earlier.

913
00:45:41,569 --> 00:45:42,996
(sings in Japanese)

914
00:45:42,996 --> 00:45:43,836
Yet, we did have a chat.

915
00:45:43,836 --> 00:45:45,497
- A little intimidated because again,

916
00:45:45,497 --> 00:45:47,473
I've always felt intimidated
by the art world,

917
00:45:47,473 --> 00:45:48,753
you know what I mean?

918
00:45:48,753 --> 00:45:50,252
Like I thought other ...

919
00:45:50,252 --> 00:45:51,804
Like again in the creative hierarchy,

920
00:45:51,804 --> 00:45:54,033
the art world is like up here,

921
00:45:54,033 --> 00:45:57,175
and fashion is like down there.

922
00:45:57,175 --> 00:45:59,214
And it's actually Elizabeth who's made me

923
00:45:59,214 --> 00:46:00,713
feel differently about that.

924
00:46:00,713 --> 00:46:02,461
You know, she's always
saying, you're so wrong.

925
00:46:02,461 --> 00:46:04,975
And it's like, you know,
so important, and so vital,

926
00:46:04,975 --> 00:46:06,804
and, you know, what you do.

927
00:46:06,804 --> 00:46:08,684
She's very encouraging that way,

928
00:46:08,684 --> 00:46:11,452
because I'm always saying,
it's, you know, like a job.

929
00:46:11,452 --> 00:46:13,792
It's like ... because I see the life

930
00:46:13,792 --> 00:46:15,804
of these artists sometimes,
and the way they live,

931
00:46:15,804 --> 00:46:17,382
and how they travel, and just think

932
00:46:17,382 --> 00:46:20,553
it's such a beautiful, creative existence

933
00:46:20,553 --> 00:46:24,636
that seems so sort of pure
in some way, you know.

934
00:46:26,575 --> 00:46:27,414
- [Voiceover] In New York,

935
00:46:27,414 --> 00:46:28,631
in the heart of Greenwich Village,

936
00:46:28,631 --> 00:46:30,882
we went to meet the
famous Elizabeth Peyton,

937
00:46:30,882 --> 00:46:34,393
the painter of an entire
generation, Marc Jacobs' idol.

938
00:46:34,393 --> 00:46:38,560
He'd spend his time leafing
through catalogs of her work.

939
00:46:40,484 --> 00:46:42,700
And in diamond dealer
John Reinhold's bedroom,

940
00:46:42,700 --> 00:46:45,192
next to millions of
dollars of Warhol's Marilyn

941
00:46:45,192 --> 00:46:47,112
were a couple of portraits of Marc Jacobs,

942
00:46:47,112 --> 00:46:48,779
by Elizabeth Peyton.

943
00:46:51,103 --> 00:46:52,951
She was moving into her new home,

944
00:46:52,951 --> 00:46:54,335
the dog didn't bite anyone,

945
00:46:54,335 --> 00:46:56,364
the glasses were still
wrapped in newspaper.

946
00:46:56,364 --> 00:46:58,703
It was an important meeting.

947
00:46:58,703 --> 00:47:01,503
- [Interviewer] You're the
one who got his complex away,

948
00:47:01,503 --> 00:47:04,920
Because he felt so inferior artistically?

949
00:47:06,644 --> 00:47:09,644
- That's just so hard
to imagine knowing Marc,

950
00:47:09,644 --> 00:47:10,964
because he's so creative,

951
00:47:10,964 --> 00:47:13,063
and he's really so sophisticated.

952
00:47:13,063 --> 00:47:15,353
But, I think when you're outside of art,

953
00:47:15,353 --> 00:47:19,186
it can seem like it's
some impenetrable world,

954
00:47:20,415 --> 00:47:22,273
but he was really right there already,

955
00:47:22,273 --> 00:47:24,084
with all his ideas and thoughts.

956
00:47:24,084 --> 00:47:27,622
When he started collecting
art, he knew what he wanted.

957
00:47:27,622 --> 00:47:30,383
You know, he's very smart, really.

958
00:47:30,383 --> 00:47:33,364
He just seems so in tune with culture,

959
00:47:33,364 --> 00:47:34,764
and he's making culture,

960
00:47:34,764 --> 00:47:37,473
like he's sort of remaking
the world in his image

961
00:47:37,473 --> 00:47:41,185
by sending off droves of
people, girls down the street

962
00:47:41,185 --> 00:47:45,352
in sequin ballet flats, and
you know, purple corduroys.

963
00:47:46,322 --> 00:47:49,415
I think that's so brilliant,
and incredibly powerful too

964
00:47:49,415 --> 00:47:52,583
about the kind of affect
you can have on your world

965
00:47:52,583 --> 00:47:54,465
through your will alone.

966
00:47:54,465 --> 00:47:56,364
And that's basically
what artists are doing,

967
00:47:56,364 --> 00:48:00,531
sort of remaking a world
within their work, right?

968
00:48:01,615 --> 00:48:02,724
- [Voiceover] But his interest in art

969
00:48:02,724 --> 00:48:04,455
has already found an outlet in his work.

970
00:48:04,455 --> 00:48:05,975
Having asked creator Stephen Sprouse

971
00:48:05,975 --> 00:48:07,655
to graffiti Vuitton handbags,

972
00:48:07,655 --> 00:48:10,133
he's now asked Japanese
artist, Takashi Murakami

973
00:48:10,133 --> 00:48:13,825
to toy with Vuitton bags in 36 colors.

974
00:48:13,825 --> 00:48:15,785
- [Interviewer] How
did you get the idea to

975
00:48:15,785 --> 00:48:18,202
call Murakami the first time?

976
00:48:20,295 --> 00:48:23,465
- Because, I had seen his
sculpture at an auction,

977
00:48:23,465 --> 00:48:26,105
and I'd read some articles about Takashi,

978
00:48:26,105 --> 00:48:29,375
and then there was a show
at the Cartier Foundation,

979
00:48:29,375 --> 00:48:31,215
and when I was at the show
at the Cartier Foundation

980
00:48:31,215 --> 00:48:33,404
I went to work the next
day, or two days later,

981
00:48:33,404 --> 00:48:35,724
and I asked Camille to try and find him,

982
00:48:35,724 --> 00:48:38,978
to get in touch with him,
so we sent him an email.

983
00:48:38,978 --> 00:48:40,413
Just like that.
- [Interviewer] So simple.

984
00:48:40,413 --> 00:48:41,767
- Yeah, it's like really ...

985
00:48:41,767 --> 00:48:44,087
You know I'm not very
clever, I'm just like

986
00:48:44,087 --> 00:48:46,254
oh call him up, see if he wants to chat.

987
00:48:46,254 --> 00:48:49,421
(upbeat flute melody)

988
00:48:50,806 --> 00:48:53,274
- [Voiceover] Takashi
Murakami's celebrity has soared.

989
00:48:53,274 --> 00:48:54,814
As he signs autographs and bags,

990
00:48:54,814 --> 00:48:56,774
his market price has exploded,

991
00:48:56,774 --> 00:48:59,385
and his ego oscillates
between the utmost humility,

992
00:48:59,385 --> 00:49:01,552
and megalomaniac euphoria.

993
00:49:02,406 --> 00:49:06,573
- So this piece is not, you
know, I have no point of view,

994
00:49:07,504 --> 00:49:09,837
so, if you have a questions,

995
00:49:11,065 --> 00:49:12,625
(laugh)

996
00:49:12,625 --> 00:49:15,185
it's really hard for me.

997
00:49:15,185 --> 00:49:17,673
Our contract is very interesting,

998
00:49:17,673 --> 00:49:22,006
when it will be opened
200 hundred years later,

999
00:49:22,006 --> 00:49:25,652
people really understanding what is that,

1000
00:49:25,652 --> 00:49:28,253
really beautiful contract, I believe.

1001
00:49:28,253 --> 00:49:32,170
It is my work, no, no,
it is our collaboration.

1002
00:49:33,373 --> 00:49:37,595
Not you know (unclear)
monogram, it is a concept.

1003
00:49:37,595 --> 00:49:39,955
You know if we can overhear,

1004
00:49:39,955 --> 00:49:43,122
people really impressive, maybe, yeah.

1005
00:49:44,075 --> 00:49:46,145
Very beautiful, not visually,

1006
00:49:46,145 --> 00:49:49,562
the concept is very beautiful, I believe.

1007
00:49:51,894 --> 00:49:53,694
- [Voiceover] The Vuitton
Murakami collaboration

1008
00:49:53,694 --> 00:49:55,393
is a textbook case of marketing.

1009
00:49:55,393 --> 00:49:57,105
As it fuels the artist's career,

1010
00:49:57,105 --> 00:49:59,894
it adds a cachet of audacity
and creativity to the brand,

1011
00:49:59,894 --> 00:50:02,126
and everybody gets richer in the process.

1012
00:50:02,126 --> 00:50:03,605
And it's about to happen again,

1013
00:50:03,605 --> 00:50:05,305
as Marc Jacobs picks up on a sculpture

1014
00:50:05,305 --> 00:50:07,244
by Swiss artist, Sylvie Fleury,

1015
00:50:07,244 --> 00:50:09,934
a Vuitton bag cast in
silver coated bronze.

1016
00:50:09,934 --> 00:50:11,973
Suddenly it's come full
circle on the runway,

1017
00:50:11,973 --> 00:50:14,013
and the front row seem to love it.

1018
00:50:14,013 --> 00:50:18,180
(playful percussive instrumental)

1019
00:50:22,714 --> 00:50:24,950
Artists are worthy when
full in every sense,

1020
00:50:24,950 --> 00:50:27,451
and Vuitton, who has the
means to afford its foibles,

1021
00:50:27,451 --> 00:50:29,821
has decided to a giant sized museum,

1022
00:50:29,821 --> 00:50:31,180
at a cost of 100 million Euros,

1023
00:50:31,180 --> 00:50:35,347
to concretize the spirit
of artistic collaboration.

1024
00:50:48,875 --> 00:50:51,085
As for Marc Jacobs, he
continues to seek out

1025
00:50:51,085 --> 00:50:52,965
confrontations with artists.

1026
00:50:52,965 --> 00:50:54,845
In Tokyo we'd seen him visit the venerable

1027
00:50:54,845 --> 00:50:58,045
Yayoi Kusama, renowned
for her famous polka dots

1028
00:50:58,045 --> 00:51:01,546
with which she tirelessly
adorns just about everything.

1029
00:51:01,546 --> 00:51:05,629
(inspirational electronic music)

1030
00:51:08,535 --> 00:51:09,368
- Aw!

1031
00:51:10,394 --> 00:51:13,285
That's so beautiful, look at that.

1032
00:51:13,285 --> 00:51:15,874
(laugh)

1033
00:51:15,874 --> 00:51:17,183
- [Voiceover] They both share a capacity

1034
00:51:17,183 --> 00:51:19,691
to oppose their vision
onto a limitless world.

1035
00:51:19,691 --> 00:51:22,869
Suddenly they were exchanging
a few home truths on creation.

1036
00:51:22,869 --> 00:51:25,531
Marc Jacobs home truth number one.

1037
00:51:25,531 --> 00:51:30,099
- I don't have any separation
between life and work.

1038
00:51:30,099 --> 00:51:32,019
I guess it's the same thing.

1039
00:51:32,019 --> 00:51:34,760
- [Voiceover] Yayoi Kusama,
home truth number two.

1040
00:51:34,760 --> 00:51:39,211
- Without my art, you
know, my life is nothing.

1041
00:51:39,211 --> 00:51:41,659
- [Voiceover] Marc Jacobs,
home truth number three.

1042
00:51:41,659 --> 00:51:44,216
- I don't know how to define success.

1043
00:51:44,216 --> 00:51:46,410
If I can continue to do what I love,

1044
00:51:46,410 --> 00:51:47,798
then I am successful.

1045
00:51:47,798 --> 00:51:49,179
- [Voiceover] And the great Yayoi Kusama,

1046
00:51:49,179 --> 00:51:50,660
principle number four.

1047
00:51:50,660 --> 00:51:54,077
- No surrender, no, you know, compassion,

1048
00:51:55,172 --> 00:51:57,452
just work very hard you know.

1049
00:51:57,452 --> 00:51:58,285
- We must.

1050
00:51:58,285 --> 00:51:59,201
- Yeah, we must you know.

1051
00:51:59,201 --> 00:52:00,629
- I promise, you too!

1052
00:52:00,629 --> 00:52:02,208
- Yeah, me too.
- Don't stop.

1053
00:52:02,208 --> 00:52:03,061
- Yeah, don't stop.

1054
00:52:03,061 --> 00:52:05,192
(laugh)

1055
00:52:05,192 --> 00:52:06,512
- You keep going.

1056
00:52:06,512 --> 00:52:10,679
- [Voiceover] In the end,
they didn't want to part.

1057
00:52:14,408 --> 00:52:16,400
We sensed that Yayoi Kusama's endless dots

1058
00:52:16,400 --> 00:52:19,410
would echo awhile in Marc Jacobs' mind.

1059
00:52:19,410 --> 00:52:23,243
(contemplative strings music)

1060
00:52:42,638 --> 00:52:44,419
- I met Yayoi Kusama.

1061
00:52:44,419 --> 00:52:45,798
- How are you?

1062
00:52:45,798 --> 00:52:49,048
- She's great, she's dotty as could be.

1063
00:52:51,747 --> 00:52:53,535
- [Voiceover] Back in Paris at Vuitton,

1064
00:52:53,535 --> 00:52:55,037
aren't these polka dots?

1065
00:52:55,037 --> 00:52:56,518
- [Marc] I mean I think they
could be like a shock or

1066
00:52:56,518 --> 00:52:58,438
- [Voiceover] And when night falls,

1067
00:52:58,438 --> 00:53:00,496
it's time for a little relaxation.

1068
00:53:00,496 --> 00:53:02,519
Laying pastel leather dots on bag models

1069
00:53:02,519 --> 00:53:03,936
for hours on end.

1070
00:53:07,498 --> 00:53:09,678
Bag's whose genealogy can
doubtless be traced back

1071
00:53:09,678 --> 00:53:12,157
to Yayoi Kusama's Tokyo polka dots,

1072
00:53:12,157 --> 00:53:14,506
to this old bottle top bag in the studio,

1073
00:53:14,506 --> 00:53:16,628
and perhaps even to a plate
in the company kitchen

1074
00:53:16,628 --> 00:53:18,239
where Marc Jacobs dines every evening,

1075
00:53:18,239 --> 00:53:20,239
a plateful of macaroons.

1076
00:53:21,359 --> 00:53:23,847
Right this way, you macaroons.

1077
00:53:23,847 --> 00:53:28,014
("Dance of the Sugar Plum
Fairy" by Tchaikovsky remix)

1078
00:53:41,370 --> 00:53:42,970
- [Woman 1] Please, may I taste one

1079
00:53:42,970 --> 00:53:44,720
of your protein bars.

1080
00:53:47,388 --> 00:53:50,179
- [Man] They're very nice.

1081
00:53:50,179 --> 00:53:51,012
- [Marc] Do you want one?

1082
00:53:51,012 --> 00:53:51,929
Do you and Pete want to split one?

1083
00:53:51,929 --> 00:53:53,938
Does anyone else, do you like one?

1084
00:53:53,938 --> 00:53:55,680
- [Man] Okay.

1085
00:53:55,680 --> 00:53:56,571
- [Woman 2] Is it nice?

1086
00:53:56,571 --> 00:53:57,701
- [Woman 1] Yeah

1087
00:53:57,701 --> 00:53:58,868
- Hey kids ...

1088
00:54:00,147 --> 00:54:02,191
- [Woman 1] It's quite nice really.

1089
00:54:02,191 --> 00:54:03,274
- I told you!

1090
00:54:05,543 --> 00:54:07,543
Protein is good for you.

1091
00:54:09,384 --> 00:54:12,134
- [Woman 1] They're off me teeth.

1092
00:54:14,309 --> 00:54:16,344
- [Voiceover] So Marc Jacobs' brain feeds

1093
00:54:16,344 --> 00:54:19,680
on fashion, art, music, and encounters.

1094
00:54:19,680 --> 00:54:22,202
On a more prosaic level, to
set its wheels in motion,

1095
00:54:22,202 --> 00:54:23,562
and oil its neurotransmitters,

1096
00:54:23,562 --> 00:54:26,979
it thrives on a rare diet of proteins ...

1097
00:54:29,212 --> 00:54:30,045
- So good.

1098
00:54:31,154 --> 00:54:32,649
- [Voiceover] ...pins ...

1099
00:54:32,649 --> 00:54:35,816
(playful organ music)

1100
00:54:39,160 --> 00:54:40,660
...fingernails ...

1101
00:54:44,909 --> 00:54:47,576
And above all, nasty cigarettes.

1102
00:54:53,031 --> 00:54:56,227
He gave up drugs and alcohol,
which had become a problem.

1103
00:54:56,227 --> 00:54:59,288
But he certainly hasn't
lost his compulsive habits.

1104
00:54:59,288 --> 00:55:03,038
(cigarette lighters flip on)

1105
00:55:19,834 --> 00:55:22,394
But fortunately, specialists
have studied his case.

1106
00:55:22,394 --> 00:55:25,114
And he's become a model
of healthy nutrition.

1107
00:55:25,114 --> 00:55:29,042
- Okay, now, I drink, in
case you're interested,

1108
00:55:29,042 --> 00:55:31,114
all you watchers out there, want to know

1109
00:55:31,114 --> 00:55:33,682
about healthy, nutrition, whatever ...

1110
00:55:33,682 --> 00:55:35,381
This is mangosteen, it's disgusting,

1111
00:55:35,381 --> 00:55:37,298
tastes like baby vomit.

1112
00:55:40,732 --> 00:55:43,023
It's a very rare fruit.

1113
00:55:43,023 --> 00:55:47,190
And this is, goji juice,
it's also very rare, berry.

1114
00:55:48,194 --> 00:55:50,527
Very good for the digestion.

1115
00:55:54,389 --> 00:55:57,472
These are omega-3, and for digestion.

1116
00:56:00,709 --> 00:56:02,209
Very good for you.

1117
00:56:08,120 --> 00:56:11,620
This one, is VSL

1118
00:56:12,558 --> 00:56:15,656
It's acidophilus, which
you find in yogurt.

1119
00:56:15,656 --> 00:56:17,323
Really good for you.

1120
00:56:19,238 --> 00:56:20,266
Mix that up with water.

1121
00:56:20,266 --> 00:56:22,849
Actually, that one tastes okay.

1122
00:56:25,277 --> 00:56:27,860
(stirs in cup)

1123
00:56:39,096 --> 00:56:41,846
Then, you get to eat your dinner.

1124
00:56:48,724 --> 00:56:50,391
- It's very filling.

1125
00:56:52,140 --> 00:56:53,352
- Oh, I forgot to tell you,

1126
00:56:53,352 --> 00:56:55,751
you get really constipated
from eating these things.

1127
00:56:55,751 --> 00:56:57,834
(laughs)

1128
00:56:58,912 --> 00:57:00,192
- [Voiceover] Now that the macaroon layout

1129
00:57:00,192 --> 00:57:03,400
has been decided upon, we move
on to the production stage.

1130
00:57:03,400 --> 00:57:06,870
- Quatre would be deal,
three would be acceptable,

1131
00:57:06,870 --> 00:57:07,890
two would be ...

1132
00:57:07,890 --> 00:57:09,221
- Unacceptable.

1133
00:57:09,221 --> 00:57:10,221
- A disaster

1134
00:57:12,852 --> 00:57:14,648
Four is ideal.

1135
00:57:14,648 --> 00:57:17,605
Let's go for the ideal ... so ...

1136
00:57:17,605 --> 00:57:18,438
- [Voiceover] Marc Jacobs wants

1137
00:57:18,438 --> 00:57:21,155
four different macaroon
bags in just five days.

1138
00:57:21,155 --> 00:57:22,544
That means stepping on it.

1139
00:57:22,544 --> 00:57:25,115
He has a habit of asking for
everything in multiple colors,

1140
00:57:25,115 --> 00:57:27,303
thus, every pair of shorts, every jacket

1141
00:57:27,303 --> 00:57:30,096
exists in at least six different colors.

1142
00:57:30,096 --> 00:57:31,358
But all will not be shown,

1143
00:57:31,358 --> 00:57:32,692
it's a matter of having the choice

1144
00:57:32,692 --> 00:57:35,244
when styling and
finalizing the silhouettes.

1145
00:57:35,244 --> 00:57:37,793
In New York, a 150 models,
and multiple versions

1146
00:57:37,793 --> 00:57:39,814
were not used for the show.

1147
00:57:39,814 --> 00:57:41,193
There were scores of different bag models,

1148
00:57:41,193 --> 00:57:43,051
and as for the shoes ...

1149
00:57:43,051 --> 00:57:44,220
- [Interviewer] Tell me how many shoes

1150
00:57:44,220 --> 00:57:45,288
do you produce for the show?

1151
00:57:45,288 --> 00:57:46,455
- 500 - 600

1152
00:57:47,456 --> 00:57:51,623
("Dance of the Sugar Plum
Fairy" by Tchaikovsky remix)

1153
00:57:54,627 --> 00:57:56,460
- This is shoe Heaven.

1154
00:57:57,534 --> 00:57:58,387
Shoe Heaven!

1155
00:57:58,387 --> 00:58:00,162
Shoe Heaven!

1156
00:58:00,162 --> 00:58:01,417
Shoe Heaven!

1157
00:58:01,417 --> 00:58:03,636
- [Voiceover] In this business,
things tend to snowball.

1158
00:58:03,636 --> 00:58:05,706
When Parisian suppliers
like the Giulio Gussans

1159
00:58:05,706 --> 00:58:07,628
come to present their
wares, the Vuitton teams

1160
00:58:07,628 --> 00:58:09,434
do their utmost to stretch the order list

1161
00:58:09,434 --> 00:58:10,896
as long as it will go.

1162
00:58:10,896 --> 00:58:12,525
While the artisan will try to resist

1163
00:58:12,525 --> 00:58:14,735
to protect his own staff,
already overburdened

1164
00:58:14,735 --> 00:58:16,897
with work for prestigious
names such as Chanel,

1165
00:58:16,897 --> 00:58:20,480
or Balenciaga during
the fashion show week.

1166
00:58:25,700 --> 00:58:26,700
- 115 pieces

1167
00:58:29,230 --> 00:58:30,860
- Can't we have 60.

1168
00:58:30,860 --> 00:58:32,860
(laugh)

1169
00:59:04,514 --> 00:59:07,347
(throat clearing)

1170
00:59:31,636 --> 00:59:34,297
- [Voiceover] 24 hours before
the show, it's accessory time.

1171
00:59:34,297 --> 00:59:37,076
The bags, shoes, headbands and
jewelry are brought together

1172
00:59:37,076 --> 00:59:39,126
and a game of musical chairs begins

1173
00:59:39,126 --> 00:59:41,526
to determine what goes with what.

1174
00:59:41,526 --> 00:59:45,693
("Dance of the Sugar Plum
Fairy" by Tchaikovsky remix)

1175
01:00:01,486 --> 01:00:04,995
We're getting dangerously
close to the show deadline.

1176
01:00:04,995 --> 01:00:08,412
(Scottish bagpipe music)

1177
01:00:10,987 --> 01:00:12,827
When in walks a prized guest,

1178
01:00:12,827 --> 01:00:15,075
one of the most influential
women in the fashion world,

1179
01:00:15,075 --> 01:00:19,154
Chief Editor of American
Vogue, Anna Wintour.

1180
01:00:19,154 --> 01:00:22,904
(dialogue obscured by music)

1181
01:00:24,995 --> 01:00:26,345
- Thank you for receiving me.

1182
01:00:26,345 --> 01:00:27,178
- Oh, you're welcome.

1183
01:00:27,178 --> 01:00:28,011
- Thank you for my bag.

1184
01:00:28,011 --> 01:00:28,884
- I'm just running to the men's room

1185
01:00:28,884 --> 01:00:30,071
so I'll be right back,
okay Robert's right there,

1186
01:00:30,071 --> 01:00:31,129
if you wanna talk to him.

1187
01:00:31,129 --> 01:00:31,962
- Okay.

1188
01:00:34,539 --> 01:00:36,121
- [Voiceover] Her eagle
eye scans the room,

1189
01:00:36,121 --> 01:00:38,667
and immediately spots
the showstopping bag.

1190
01:00:38,667 --> 01:00:40,453
- This tote right here.

1191
01:00:40,453 --> 01:00:42,870
- Yeah, they're really funny.

1192
01:00:44,681 --> 01:00:45,898
It's leather.

1193
01:00:45,898 --> 01:00:47,230
- It's leather?

1194
01:00:47,230 --> 01:00:50,735
- It's leather, yeah,
it's all leather woven.

1195
01:00:50,735 --> 01:00:52,568
Shoes, what dya think?

1196
01:00:54,999 --> 01:00:57,844
- [Voiceover] She gets her
own, on the go, fashion show.

1197
01:00:57,844 --> 01:01:01,594
(energetic electronic music)

1198
01:01:19,233 --> 01:01:21,535
And she even makes a comment.

1199
01:01:21,535 --> 01:01:22,702
- Very pretty.

1200
01:01:25,823 --> 01:01:28,823
(opera music plays)

1201
01:01:30,524 --> 01:01:32,273
- [Voiceover] As soon as
Anna Wintour has left,

1202
01:01:32,273 --> 01:01:33,944
finalizing of the accessories begins again

1203
01:01:33,944 --> 01:01:35,370
with a vengeance.

1204
01:01:35,370 --> 01:01:36,990
- These shoes, we have other options,

1205
01:01:36,990 --> 01:01:38,369
where they come in her size.

1206
01:01:38,369 --> 01:01:40,944
Could we try, can we
see the gold metal one?

1207
01:01:40,944 --> 01:01:43,395
Let's make this looks
rich enough, you know.

1208
01:01:43,395 --> 01:01:46,607
(speaks in French)

1209
01:01:46,607 --> 01:01:48,076
- [Voiceover] This was
the moment we dreaded.

1210
01:01:48,076 --> 01:01:49,915
One we'd already experienced in New York.

1211
01:01:49,915 --> 01:01:51,388
Pushed to our physical limits.

1212
01:01:51,388 --> 01:01:52,956
There we saw how these last 12 hours

1213
01:01:52,956 --> 01:01:54,447
were a race against the clock,

1214
01:01:54,447 --> 01:01:56,197
compromise, and possibility.

1215
01:01:56,197 --> 01:01:57,897
- Yeah, the labels in the wrong side.

1216
01:01:57,897 --> 01:01:59,244
- [Voiceover] The clothes
were still mutating.

1217
01:01:59,244 --> 01:02:01,303
Even the T-shirts were back to front.

1218
01:02:01,303 --> 01:02:03,220
- Turn it around again.

1219
01:02:05,356 --> 01:02:07,023
Has it been cut yet?

1220
01:02:09,453 --> 01:02:10,954
- Yes

1221
01:02:10,954 --> 01:02:13,614
Is it possible to cut it again,

1222
01:02:13,614 --> 01:02:17,781
in the pearlescent way, so
the (unclear fashion term).

1223
01:02:20,023 --> 01:02:21,506
- Okay, stick it out the front?

1224
01:02:21,506 --> 01:02:22,917
- Stick it in the toaster.

1225
01:02:22,917 --> 01:02:24,017
- Okay.

1226
01:02:24,017 --> 01:02:26,346
- We may have to make an ivory version,

1227
01:02:26,346 --> 01:02:28,906
but I think we need more,
like as much of this stuff.

1228
01:02:28,906 --> 01:02:30,775
It would be great to have
this one and a black one

1229
01:02:30,775 --> 01:02:33,054
out her, but if they could be
cut in the different patterns.

1230
01:02:33,054 --> 01:02:34,196
- Okay, yeah.

1231
01:02:34,196 --> 01:02:35,636
- Oh, is the white coat ready?

1232
01:02:35,636 --> 01:02:38,708
What I'd like to do is add
like a couple more layers.

1233
01:02:38,708 --> 01:02:39,895
- Okay

1234
01:02:39,895 --> 01:02:41,708
- Oh, Joseph, and on the pants,

1235
01:02:41,708 --> 01:02:43,658
there's spots on one side.

1236
01:02:43,658 --> 01:02:46,388
- I think, what we can do,
is keep the big motif here

1237
01:02:46,388 --> 01:02:48,566
and maybe just do a partial motif,

1238
01:02:48,566 --> 01:02:51,356
like a really small one here,
at least to give some weight.

1239
01:02:51,356 --> 01:02:52,189
It's never going to be the same.

1240
01:02:52,189 --> 01:02:53,022
- Yeah

1241
01:02:53,022 --> 01:02:53,855
- Are you Okay?

1242
01:02:53,855 --> 01:02:54,982
- Yeah

1243
01:02:54,982 --> 01:02:56,399
- Are you crying.

1244
01:02:59,303 --> 01:03:02,114
So maybe, you know, but
just a tiny bit in the front

1245
01:03:02,114 --> 01:03:05,042
and then maybe weighing
the back a little bit.

1246
01:03:05,042 --> 01:03:06,202
- [Voiceover] The machine was racing.

1247
01:03:06,202 --> 01:03:08,394
Ideas from all sides, workshops gone wild,

1248
01:03:08,394 --> 01:03:10,412
Marc Jacobs in meltdown.

1249
01:03:10,412 --> 01:03:12,995
(sirens sound)

1250
01:03:16,962 --> 01:03:20,545
(chaotic electronic music)

1251
01:03:22,000 --> 01:03:24,581
(calming piano music)

1252
01:03:24,581 --> 01:03:28,731
(chaotic electronic music)

1253
01:03:28,731 --> 01:03:31,898
(sewing machine hums)

1254
01:03:32,801 --> 01:03:35,134
- I'm gonna take your purse.

1255
01:03:40,682 --> 01:03:42,003
- [Voiceover] In Paris, at Vuitton,

1256
01:03:42,003 --> 01:03:43,683
the pressure is even more intense.

1257
01:03:43,683 --> 01:03:46,282
Everyone is in overdrive.

1258
01:03:46,282 --> 01:03:51,240
At 4 am, bags are still
arriving in dribs and drabs.

1259
01:03:51,240 --> 01:03:54,073
(speaking French)

1260
01:03:55,341 --> 01:03:56,952
All but one.

1261
01:03:56,952 --> 01:03:58,741
Four people have been working relentlessly

1262
01:03:58,741 --> 01:04:01,410
for three days on the
extravagant Cubist bag.

1263
01:04:01,410 --> 01:04:04,272
The compilation of several
Vuitton bags in one.

1264
01:04:04,272 --> 01:04:06,890
The multiple layers of
leather have broken needles,

1265
01:04:06,890 --> 01:04:08,057
even machines.

1266
01:04:10,575 --> 01:04:12,951
They completed it by hand.

1267
01:04:12,951 --> 01:04:16,868
And here it is, the
impossible bag is finished.

1268
01:04:27,602 --> 01:04:31,019
(tense orchestral music)

1269
01:04:54,242 --> 01:04:56,742
(door creaks)

1270
01:05:26,150 --> 01:05:28,162
It's 6:30 in the morning,

1271
01:05:28,162 --> 01:05:30,442
but will this bag win the
approval of a Marc Jacobs

1272
01:05:30,442 --> 01:05:32,852
who has never seen it?

1273
01:05:32,852 --> 01:05:36,769
(suspenseful orchestral music)

1274
01:05:47,401 --> 01:05:48,234
- Wow

1275
01:05:49,532 --> 01:05:50,615
Look at that!

1276
01:05:52,111 --> 01:05:53,611
That is so insane.

1277
01:05:55,020 --> 01:05:57,122
That is sick in the head.

1278
01:05:57,122 --> 01:05:58,772
- [Man] (speaks in French)

1279
01:05:58,772 --> 01:06:01,955
- [Woman] No!
- (speaks in French)

1280
01:06:01,955 --> 01:06:05,373
That is like insanity personified.

1281
01:06:05,373 --> 01:06:06,956
- Its so brilliant.

1282
01:06:08,203 --> 01:06:09,993
- That is so good.

1283
01:06:09,993 --> 01:06:11,812
- [Voiceover] 28 signed examples would be

1284
01:06:11,812 --> 01:06:13,682
produced and sold around the world.

1285
01:06:13,682 --> 01:06:15,543
Price, 35,000 Euros.

1286
01:06:15,543 --> 01:06:17,431
- That, photographed against nude legs,

1287
01:06:17,431 --> 01:06:19,031
is going to be fantastic, no?

1288
01:06:19,031 --> 01:06:20,242
- Yeah.

1289
01:06:20,242 --> 01:06:22,550
- That's insane, isn't it?

1290
01:06:22,550 --> 01:06:24,008
You remember when we were making that

1291
01:06:24,008 --> 01:06:25,591
just the other day.

1292
01:06:27,511 --> 01:06:28,594
It's so nuts.

1293
01:06:30,389 --> 01:06:33,806
(soulful chanting music)

1294
01:06:36,461 --> 01:06:37,410
- [Voiceover] While some merely

1295
01:06:37,410 --> 01:06:38,861
take a break during this white night,

1296
01:06:38,861 --> 01:06:42,385
Marc Jacobs grabs a bare 45 minutes sleep.

1297
01:06:42,385 --> 01:06:45,802
(soulful chanting music)

1298
01:07:02,834 --> 01:07:04,577
- [Woman] How you do feel?

1299
01:07:04,577 --> 01:07:05,744
- Much better.

1300
01:07:07,171 --> 01:07:08,056
(cough)

1301
01:07:08,056 --> 01:07:09,474
- 32

1302
01:07:09,474 --> 01:07:11,474
(laugh)

1303
01:07:46,141 --> 01:07:49,095
- Wow, I love that so much.

1304
01:07:49,095 --> 01:07:50,215
- [Voiceover] It's nine in the morning.

1305
01:07:50,215 --> 01:07:51,725
The show is at three.

1306
01:07:51,725 --> 01:07:54,764
And most of this dress is
still just pinned together.

1307
01:07:54,764 --> 01:07:56,205
Yet, nobody seems ruffled.

1308
01:07:56,205 --> 01:07:58,383
And just as well, because,
even its final shape

1309
01:07:58,383 --> 01:08:00,133
is still pretty hazy.

1310
01:08:01,674 --> 01:08:03,713
- Um, the other thing is Jane,

1311
01:08:03,713 --> 01:08:07,335
you could put like a
little tie, a canvas tie,

1312
01:08:07,335 --> 01:08:09,832
you can attach something
here and here, like a tie.

1313
01:08:09,832 --> 01:08:11,415
Do you have a tape?

1314
01:08:15,022 --> 01:08:15,903
Jolissima

1315
01:08:15,903 --> 01:08:17,903
(laugh)

1316
01:08:21,903 --> 01:08:24,153
- [Man] I think she should.

1317
01:08:25,293 --> 01:08:26,448
I think she should.

1318
01:08:26,448 --> 01:08:29,090
(down tempo piano music)

1319
01:08:29,090 --> 01:08:32,507
(Polaroid camera noises)

1320
01:08:49,858 --> 01:08:51,441
- Aw, that's yours.

1321
01:09:00,018 --> 01:09:02,674
- It's finished, she's the last one?

1322
01:09:02,674 --> 01:09:03,507
- Yeah

1323
01:09:03,507 --> 01:09:04,529
(cheers)

1324
01:09:04,529 --> 01:09:08,612
- Let's, let me get
photographed, and... kidding.

1325
01:09:13,036 --> 01:09:15,276
- [Voiceover] Noon, the
accessories are done.

1326
01:09:15,276 --> 01:09:17,306
But in the workshops, the race goes on.

1327
01:09:17,306 --> 01:09:20,767
Nervous tension turning to hilarity.

1328
01:09:20,767 --> 01:09:22,850
(laughs)

1329
01:09:39,503 --> 01:09:42,586
(parade music plays)

1330
01:09:45,268 --> 01:09:47,041
- [Voiceover] In the Petit Palais,

1331
01:09:47,041 --> 01:09:48,690
the models are getting ready.

1332
01:09:48,690 --> 01:09:50,612
If the Marc Jacobs show
is one of the highlights

1333
01:09:50,612 --> 01:09:52,150
of the New York fashion calendar,

1334
01:09:52,150 --> 01:09:54,220
the Louis Vuitton show comes at the close

1335
01:09:54,220 --> 01:09:55,778
of the Paris Fashion Week.

1336
01:09:55,778 --> 01:09:57,260
Meaning the most sought after models

1337
01:09:57,260 --> 01:09:59,430
will have cat-walked
an average of 90 shows,

1338
01:09:59,430 --> 01:10:03,332
with hairdos and makeup to beat the band.

1339
01:10:03,332 --> 01:10:05,460
Given the toll it's taken
on their hair and skin,

1340
01:10:05,460 --> 01:10:09,293
some have become almost
allergic to cosmetics.

1341
01:10:33,243 --> 01:10:34,826
12:48 and counting.

1342
01:10:45,202 --> 01:10:47,123
Some of the linings are pretty shaky.

1343
01:10:47,123 --> 01:10:51,290
And even worse, several
dresses, are looking flakey.

1344
01:11:18,515 --> 01:11:20,214
Accident prevention rules.

1345
01:11:20,214 --> 01:11:22,424
Fabrizio Viti trashes
the soles of his shoes

1346
01:11:22,424 --> 01:11:25,167
to make them more adherent
and to avoid a fall.

1347
01:11:25,167 --> 01:11:26,945
- It's very psychological as well,

1348
01:11:26,945 --> 01:11:31,650
if a shoe is not scratched,
we think the girl gonna fall.

1349
01:11:31,650 --> 01:11:32,483
- [Interviewer] And has uh,

1350
01:11:32,483 --> 01:11:34,979
a girl falling at the Vuitton show?

1351
01:11:34,979 --> 01:11:35,812
- No

1352
01:11:35,812 --> 01:11:36,688
- [Interviewer] Never happens?

1353
01:11:36,688 --> 01:11:40,411
- Sorry but, I have to touch, you know.

1354
01:11:40,411 --> 01:11:41,396
- [Voiceover] They think of everything.

1355
01:11:41,396 --> 01:11:43,367
Each model has her own
emergency bag containing

1356
01:11:43,367 --> 01:11:45,455
a bale, safety pins, a g-string, tampons,

1357
01:11:45,455 --> 01:11:47,527
a shoe horn, a cutter, adhesive tape,

1358
01:11:47,527 --> 01:11:49,860
and a roll on fluff remover.

1359
01:11:57,815 --> 01:11:59,746
- [Voiceover] Not quite
finished when you have to thread

1360
01:11:59,746 --> 01:12:02,496
a needle after a sleepless night.

1361
01:12:23,124 --> 01:12:24,351
- [Voiceover] Almost 2 pm.

1362
01:12:24,351 --> 01:12:25,804
As soon as each garment is finished,

1363
01:12:25,804 --> 01:12:29,244
it's immediately couriered to the show.

1364
01:12:29,244 --> 01:12:32,585
(motorcycle hums)

1365
01:12:32,585 --> 01:12:36,724
(tense orchestral music)

1366
01:12:36,724 --> 01:12:38,613
Meanwhile rehearsals have already started.

1367
01:12:38,613 --> 01:12:40,804
Marc Jacobs discovers the giant screens,

1368
01:12:40,804 --> 01:12:43,234
except the video isn't
the one he was expecting.

1369
01:12:43,234 --> 01:12:44,674
- There's a storm.

1370
01:12:44,674 --> 01:12:47,044
- [Camille] We tried with that ...

1371
01:12:47,044 --> 01:12:48,377
- What happened?

1372
01:12:50,564 --> 01:12:53,303
Why did you do that Camille?

1373
01:12:53,303 --> 01:12:57,053
(dialogue obscured by music)

1374
01:13:04,074 --> 01:13:06,013
- [Voiceover] In the
workshops they're still at it.

1375
01:13:06,013 --> 01:13:08,453
2:28 pm, two garments are still resisting.

1376
01:13:08,453 --> 01:13:10,775
One, a safari jacket with
a liberty layered bag,

1377
01:13:10,775 --> 01:13:12,823
was such a headache that
the reluctant buttons

1378
01:13:12,823 --> 01:13:14,490
remain to be fitted.

1379
01:13:17,050 --> 01:13:18,450
- [Voiceover] And, a
lampion sleeved jacket

1380
01:13:18,450 --> 01:13:21,867
with a back lacing, straight out of Hell.

1381
01:13:27,690 --> 01:13:28,856
- [Voiceover] Yet, in 30 minutes,

1382
01:13:28,856 --> 01:13:31,043
it must all be on the catwalk.

1383
01:13:31,043 --> 01:13:34,793
(mid tempo electronic music)

1384
01:13:43,125 --> 01:13:46,375
(French speaker on PA)

1385
01:13:48,089 --> 01:13:50,922
(speaking French)

1386
01:14:06,356 --> 01:14:07,802
- Please don't move around too much

1387
01:14:07,802 --> 01:14:09,201
when we've looked at you okay?

1388
01:14:09,201 --> 01:14:10,661
Stay still!

1389
01:14:10,661 --> 01:14:14,041
And nope, this isn't on
your shoulder is it Sveta?

1390
01:14:14,041 --> 01:14:16,300
Just hold it down please, for now.

1391
01:14:16,300 --> 01:14:19,930
- Yeah, I'm coming over
with that one on the bike.

1392
01:14:19,930 --> 01:14:22,190
Okay, see you, bye bye.

1393
01:14:22,190 --> 01:14:25,607
(tense orchestral music)

1394
01:14:27,387 --> 01:14:29,262
- [Voiceover] The last jacket is ready,

1395
01:14:29,262 --> 01:14:31,095
but a new race begins.

1396
01:14:32,142 --> 01:14:36,309
In New York, two dresses
never made it to the show.

1397
01:14:42,201 --> 01:14:45,951
(energetic electronic music)

1398
01:15:17,371 --> 01:15:19,750
We're in the center of Paris, a Pont Neuf.

1399
01:15:19,750 --> 01:15:21,978
The show is at the Petit
Palais on the Champs-Élysées,

1400
01:15:21,978 --> 01:15:24,561
about 15 minutes in
traffic jams from here.

1401
01:15:24,561 --> 01:15:27,811
A show that starts in one minutes time.

1402
01:15:29,480 --> 01:15:32,647
And the dispatch rider hasn't arrived.

1403
01:15:41,267 --> 01:15:45,434
But Janet Jackson is already
sitting in the front row.

1404
01:15:46,332 --> 01:15:50,499
(crowd noises, music, and cameras)

1405
01:15:53,722 --> 01:15:54,805
- Eh, eh, eh!

1406
01:15:58,978 --> 01:16:01,811
(motorcycle revs)

1407
01:16:04,296 --> 01:16:05,129
- [Woman 1] Lapel.

1408
01:16:05,129 --> 01:16:09,296
- [Woman 2] They're out,
through there, doing something.

1409
01:16:10,906 --> 01:16:13,239
(footsteps)

1410
01:16:16,026 --> 01:16:17,308
- [Voiceover] The missing
jackets have arrived,

1411
01:16:17,308 --> 01:16:19,189
but of course, they have
to be touched up again,

1412
01:16:19,189 --> 01:16:20,356
one last time.

1413
01:16:21,684 --> 01:16:24,517
(speaking French)

1414
01:16:28,804 --> 01:16:32,971
Marc Jacobs checks the lacing
on the lampion sleeved jacket.

1415
01:16:35,615 --> 01:16:38,754
The mob of photographers
is growing impatient.

1416
01:16:38,754 --> 01:16:40,983
- Excuse me, excuse me.

1417
01:16:40,983 --> 01:16:43,621
(chandeliers twinkling)

1418
01:16:43,621 --> 01:16:46,191
- [Voiceover] But now, the
chandeliers are being raised.

1419
01:16:46,191 --> 01:16:48,951
The Vuitton show is about to begin.

1420
01:16:48,951 --> 01:16:53,034
(contemplative electronic music)

1421
01:17:41,791 --> 01:17:42,991
- [Marc] You saw us working on the shoes,

1422
01:17:42,991 --> 01:17:44,821
and the bags, and the clothes,

1423
01:17:44,821 --> 01:17:47,229
and I think each thing
influences the other.

1424
01:17:47,229 --> 01:17:48,751
You know, and you start to do a bag

1425
01:17:48,751 --> 01:17:50,090
that's like kind of more elaborate,

1426
01:17:50,090 --> 01:17:51,871
then you go back and look
at a piece of clothing

1427
01:17:51,871 --> 01:17:53,399
that you thought was pushed far enough,

1428
01:17:53,399 --> 01:17:55,351
but then you realize maybe
it should be pushed further,

1429
01:17:55,351 --> 01:17:58,551
and visa versa, it's
like such a long process

1430
01:17:58,551 --> 01:18:01,021
between choosing fabrics,
developing prints,

1431
01:18:01,021 --> 01:18:02,597
working on the embroideries.

1432
01:18:02,597 --> 01:18:04,330
I mean, you saw the
team, everyone has been

1433
01:18:04,330 --> 01:18:07,911
busy working on all of
the stuff for months.

1434
01:18:07,911 --> 01:18:09,879
It just comes together at a certain point,

1435
01:18:09,879 --> 01:18:13,399
and the momentum sort of builds,
and the time gets shorter

1436
01:18:13,399 --> 01:18:15,471
so you have to make decisions, you know,

1437
01:18:15,471 --> 01:18:19,901
and then, you're left
with what is the show.

1438
01:18:19,901 --> 01:18:22,984
(playful drum music)

1439
01:18:25,549 --> 01:18:28,299
Is it so horrible that it's good?

1440
01:18:30,049 --> 01:18:33,216
(uptempo piano music)

1441
01:18:37,311 --> 01:18:39,039
So it would be nice to see
all these things together

1442
01:18:39,039 --> 01:18:41,872
to see that we really can combine.

1443
01:18:47,439 --> 01:18:48,272
So insane.

1444
01:18:50,671 --> 01:18:52,754
That is sick in the head.

1445
01:19:11,821 --> 01:19:15,321
(Scottish bagpipes music)

1446
01:19:24,981 --> 01:19:26,351
So we took two fabrics sometimes,

1447
01:19:26,351 --> 01:19:30,541
and had them woven together,
and then we bleached them out.

1448
01:19:30,541 --> 01:19:32,239
Yeah, tragic.

1449
01:19:32,239 --> 01:19:35,739
(classical music remixed)

1450
01:19:40,610 --> 01:19:43,527
As screwy as it can be, the better.

1451
01:19:52,479 --> 01:19:55,312
(classical music)

1452
01:20:10,469 --> 01:20:12,333
(scissor cuts)

1453
01:20:12,333 --> 01:20:14,187
(steam hisses)

1454
01:20:14,187 --> 01:20:17,854
(contemplative piano music)

1455
01:20:41,796 --> 01:20:45,546
(energetic percussive music)

1456
01:20:56,159 --> 01:20:59,492
(chandeliers twinkling)

1457
01:21:02,459 --> 01:21:04,111
- Um, nice to meet you.

1458
01:21:04,111 --> 01:21:04,944
- Hi gorgeous.

1459
01:21:04,944 --> 01:21:05,777
Hi Dieter

1460
01:21:08,487 --> 01:21:09,619
- Fantastic

1461
01:21:09,619 --> 01:21:10,591
Fantastic

1462
01:21:10,591 --> 01:21:11,728
Incredible

1463
01:21:11,728 --> 01:21:13,028
Ah, really

1464
01:21:13,028 --> 01:21:13,861
Yes

1465
01:21:14,921 --> 01:21:15,754
It's fantastic

1466
01:21:15,754 --> 01:21:17,504
There's so many bags!

1467
01:21:19,935 --> 01:21:23,935
This is incredible, but
the bags, so many ideas.

1468
01:21:26,461 --> 01:21:28,074
Effects, fantastic.

1469
01:21:28,074 --> 01:21:28,907
- Good

1470
01:21:28,907 --> 01:21:29,894
- You aren't regretted.

1471
01:21:29,894 --> 01:21:31,243
- No, you aren't.

1472
01:21:31,243 --> 01:21:35,326
(contemplative electronic music)